 The Chassis Engineering front...  The Chassis Engineering front suspension kit includes the crossmember, upper towers, motor mounts, and hardware. |
 We also ordered a CE transmission...  We also ordered a CE transmission mount kit, as this car is going to be equipped with a small-block Chevy engine and a Turbo 350 transmission. |
 Here&8217s what the stock...  Here’s what the stock front suspension looked like before it was disassembled. It&8217s an antique independent front suspension with double A-arms and springs. |
 We started unbolting the 5/16-inch...  We started unbolting the 5/16-inch bolts (there were 16) holding the original front suspension to the frame. |
 We removed the original front...  We removed the original front suspension as a unit, wheels and tires included. The removable front suspension makes this an easy car to work on. |
 Before the new CE crossmember...  Before the new CE crossmember can be installed, we had to remove the V-bracket, which was spot-welded to the frame. An air chisel worked well for this process. |
 We cleaned the frame&8217s...  We cleaned the frame&8217s surface and removed any rough edges. |
 We placed the new CE crossmember...  We placed the new CE crossmember under the frame and checked for obstructions. When everything looked good, we bolted the crossmember in place with four bolts. |
 The CE crossmember kit utilizes...  The CE crossmember kit utilizes the stock factory mounting holes for the new Mustang II front suspension. The factory holes needed to be enlarged from 5/16- to 3/8-inch. The instructions were easy to follow. We utilized four holes to support the crossmember while we drilled the other holes. The crossmember uses rack-and-pinion steering mounted on the front of the crossmember. A high-quality rack-and-pinion Flaming River steering system was perfect on this car. The kit also included a new Allen head set screw for steering clearance purposes. |
 Ten holes were drilled to...  Ten holes were drilled to install the new crossmember, and eight holes were drilled to support the upper towers to the new crossmember. The mounting holes on the towers were used to make pilot holes on the crossmember. Note: The CE upper towers have been designed to allow for adjustable ride height of the spring. You simply remove the setscrew (Allen) and turn the spring tower up or down to adjust. When finished, the setscrew has to be reinstalled. |
 The CE upper towers were bolted...  The CE upper towers were bolted on, and the new holes were drilled on the inside and outside of the frame. |
 Here we&8217re just finishing...  Here we&8217re just finishing up the installation. Notice the crossmember is in place and all we have to do is install the upper and lower control arms, spring shocks, and spindles. |
 |
 The Chassis Engineering Mustang...  The Chassis Engineering Mustang II front crossmember was designed to be used with Heidt’s tubular A-arms, so we ordered all of the necessary parts. The Heidt&8217s parts included the upper and lower control arms, springs, and hardware. |
 The spindles and brake kit...  The spindles and brake kit are from Total Cost Involved Engineering (TCI). We selected a Chevy lug-nut pattern front and rear. |
 After the frame was painted...  After the frame was painted black, we installed the Heidts upper control arms using the special bolts provided in the kit. |
 Next, we installed the Mustang...  Next, we installed the Mustang II front springs. |
 We bolted the lower tubular...  We bolted the lower tubular A-arms in place, aligning them with the springs. |
 We installed the TCI 2-inch...  We installed the TCI 2-inch dropped spindle to the lower control arm. |
 Using a jack and a pry bar,...  Using a jack and a pry bar, we were able to connect the spindle to the upper control arm. |
 We tightened the lower ball...  We tightened the lower ball joints and installed the cotter pins. |
 Then we tightened the upper...  Then we tightened the upper ball joints and installed the cotter pins. We were ready to install the brake system. |
 We started the brake system...  We started the brake system by packing the wheel bearings, inner and outer. The inner bearing was placed in the rotor, then the grease seal was installed. |
 The rotor was installed on...  The rotor was installed on the spindle, followed by the bearing, washer, and nut. |
 We tightened the spindle nut....  We tightened the spindle nut. Be careful to not overtighten it. The spindle should be firmly in place and the nut tight, then a cotter pin is used to hold it in place. Overtightening the nut can burn out the bearings. The rotor should spin freely when the nut is secure. |
 Heres the complete rotor...  Heres the complete rotor assembly right down to the dust cover. |
 Next the calipers can be installed....  Next the calipers can be installed. We bolted the TCI disc brake brackets to the spindles using Loctite to help secure the bolts. |
 To make sure they were tight,...  To make sure they were tight, we used an impact wrench to tighten the TCI disc brake brackets to the spindles. |
 TCIs disc brake conversion...  TCIs disc brake conversion uses 1970-1986 GM calipers from midsize GM cars. They will be more than enough to stop this 1951 Chevy. |