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1936 Ford Project Part VII: Power Windows

How To Install Specialty Power Windows In A Fat Fender Ford
By The Rod & Custom Staff
Photography by Warren Boughn
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We ordered a Specialty Power Windows kit that came with almost everything we needed to complete the installation. The other parts we needed were Vintique stainless steel channels from C.W. Moss and rubber seals from Bob Drake.
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We placed the window seal channels on the windshield post, leaving about a 3/16-inch gap between the channel and door top to avoid chafing. We marked the channels and trimmed off the excess.
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We repeated the procedure on the convertible top-iron channel mount. We marked it and cut it accordingly.
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We inserted the window frame into the door window channels to arrive at the correct roll-up angle. Using the window frame as a guide, we angled the channel and marked it for installation.
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The stainless channels were marked for position, then we drilled three mounting holes in each one. The holes were slotted for fine adjustment.
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Following the mark for the angle, we placed the channels on the post and marked the hole location. We center-punched the mark and drilled the holes for flathead sheetmetal screws.
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We installed the stainless channels then completed the installation with the rubber seals from Bob Drake. Because we chopped the top, the seals had to be trimmed to size.
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The original regulator channels had to be removed, and new ones from Specialty installed in their place. The two support pieces will have to be taken from the old channels and added to the new ones. They have to be removable to get the glass in and out of the frame.
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After the new window channels were finished, we used some 1/4-inch masonite to make the glass templates. We installed the masonite in the flexible window frame for strength so that we could complete the installation.
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We trimmed the Specialty mounting bracket as shown, then centered it on the door and tacked it in place.
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We installed the track and window frame into the door and checked the window travel from the bottom to the top. We aligned the window track so that, in the bottom position, the window frame was even with the top of the door; then we marked the portion of the track that extended past the door and trimmed it off. The window mechanism marked on the motor is the original length and the other one is trimmed to fit.
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We wanted the window to move up and down as straight as possible, to avoid binding. We achieved a true mounting position by lining the mechanism up with a framing square as shown. We slid the square along the top of the door frame until it was over the center of the lower mounting bolt. When it was lined up, we marked the upper mounting position and drilled the mounting hole. Note: This is not the way Specialty Power Windows recommends installing its kit; but, since the track mounted flush to the inside door skin, we chose an easier method. In other cases, it's best to follow the instructions.
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The window kit is installed and ready to be wired. Notice how the top of the window lines up with the door top. If we had to adjust the mechanism vertically, we could loosen the two bottom bolts and pivot it on the top bolt, because the bracket is slotted. Remember to thoroughly lubricate the mechanism according to Specialty's instructions.
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Here's the window in the up position. It fits great and goes up and down quickly and smoothly. The next step is a trip to a quality automotive glass shop.
Bob Drake Reproductions, Inc.
Grants Pass
OR
Precision Street Rods & Machines
Northridge
CA
C.W. Moss
Orange
CA
Specialty Power Windows
140 Industrial Park Dr.
Forsyth
GA  31029-8520

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