You'll need to carefully insert the camshaft into the cam bores until fully seated, but don't push too far as you might dislodge the rear soft plug at the rear cam bore opening. Since the crank is not in the way at this stage of the installation, you'll have convenient access to the rear of the cam, which you can use to help guide the stick through the bore holes.
Once the cam is fully inserted (be sure all journals are centered on their respective bearings), rotate the camshaft by hand to check for fit. The camshaft should turn easily. A slight bit of resistance is acceptable. If you find the camshaft is difficult to turn, however, you may have one or more bearings that are too tight on the i.d. (inner diameter). In that case, carefully remove the camshaft and check each bearing for any sign of a burr at the front or rear edge.
If a burr is found, you can trim the edge burr with a deburring tool. However, Schaerer adds a word of caution, saying, "If you do this, don't get too carried away. A very slight trim is all that's needed." Afterwards, clean the area, re-insert the cam, and once again check the fit.
In any performance engine, it's always a good idea to "degree" the camshaft in order to verify the timing of valve opening and closing. For performance purposes, it may be necessary to retard or advance the camshaft timing in order to increase low-end or high-end engine performance. While we don't have room in this article to address camshaft degreeing, the steps involved in this procedure can be obtained from the camshaft maker's instruction sheets or on the cam maker's Web site.
LiftersYou should always install new lifters along with your new camshaft. This is especially important when dealing with a "flat-tappet" solid or hydraulic camshaft, since lifters rotate during operation and establish distinct wear patterns at each camshaft-lobe-contact area. If you're working with roller lifters, however, you may re-use them as long as they are in good condition and are appropriate for the specific replacement camshaft. In any case, make certain that the components you are using are compatible. Always use flat-tappet solid lifters with a flat-tappet solid lifter cam, flat-tappet hydraulic lifters with a flat-tappet hydraulic cam, and roller lifters with a roller camshaft.
Though it's not recommend, if you choose to install used flat-tappet lifters, do so only if the original flat-tappet camshaft is also being installed. In this scenario, it is vital that each lifter location matches the original installation. If you're planning to reuse the original cam and lifters, inspect them carefully to make sure they are in good condition. Remember, too, that the lifters must be mated only to the specific cam lobe to which they were mated originally.
"Flat"-tappet lobes and lifters are only "flat" to the eye. In reality, each lobe features a slight taper, approximately 0.001 inch to 0.007 inch. Each lifter also has a slight crown. This combination of a tapered lobe and domed lifter face is a design feature that causes the lifter to rotate in its bore during engine operation, enabling it to avoid concentrated scuff wear.
Regardless of the type of lifters being installed, you are advised to coat each lifter liberally with the proper type of assembly lubricant before insertion. If roller lifters are being installed, each lifter must be guided (via a lifter guide bar) in order to place the roller tip in alignment with the cam lobe, and to prevent the lifter from rotating in its bore. If a roller lifter rotates in its bore, severe lifter and camshaft damage will occur. Always check each lifter in its bore for smooth up-down movement, and also confirm that each flat-tappet lifter will rotate smoothly in its bore.
Now you're ready for the finishing touches. With lifters in place, install the pushrods and adjust the valve lash according to the engine manual or the cam maker's instructions. Avoid "over-rolling" the engine, to minimize loss of cam lubricant from lobes and lifter faces.