Crate Expectations - How to Select the Right Crate Engine

HIDDEN COSTS
When you budget for a crate engine, you'll have to leave a little extra money for a few other unexpected expenses. In addition to some of the components that may not be included with the product, there will be other costs that are easy to overlook when planning a buildup.

Commonly overlooked expenses are shipping fees, tax, and insurance. Other costs depend on how complete the motor is. The level of completeness differs from company to company, but items frequently not included with a crate engine are the carburetor, intake manifold, headers, starter, distributor, plugs, plug wires, belts, hoses, fuel pump, harmonic balancer, pulleys, flywheel or flexplate, water pump, air cleaner, valve covers, and battery. If you don't already own these components (or if the parts you already own don't work with the engine), it's recommended that you buy those parts from the same company that sold you the engine. This will reduce the number of companies you're dealing with, will increase the chance that the parts will be compatible, and will ease the process of solving tech problems if they are not compatible.

AVOIDING BAIT AND SWITCH
The Internet has made the mail-order engine business a lot bigger and a lot easier, but it has also opened the door for less-than-honest crate engine companies. It's now common to see a low-priced engine advertised, only to find out that the engine advertised doesn't really exist--or if it does, you will be expected to pay for a long list of other parts to get it up and running. Rule of thumb: If it looks too good to be true, it probably is.

COMMON ERRORS
Most of the manufacturers we talked to agree that the biggest mistake hot rodders make when buying a crate engine or components for their project is that they get overambitious.

Everybody wants a big-horsepower engine, when, for many applications (such as the vast majority of street rods), something milder would be a better pick. When comparing horsepower and torque ratings of different engines, don't worry about what they're making at 6,000 rpm where you'll never be. Look at the power they make at midrange rpms where the engine will be spending the most time.The same rule applies to the level of finish. "Show-quality" versions of turnkey engines are available from many manufacturers. These packages typically include polished or chromed valve covers, air cleaner, oil pan, polished heads, brackets, drives, and pulleys. In the case of an aluminum block, the whole block might be polished. This attention to detail is great, but can add a couple thousand dollars to the cost of the engine. That might be money well spent if you show your car a lot and those details are visible. But if you're building a high-mileage driver, or if those dressy elements won't be noticeable once the engine is dropped into the engine compartment, why not save your money?If we had to wrap it all up in six easy-to-remember rules, it would be these:

1. Only buy from a company that will stand behind the crate engine they sell you.
2. Evaluate what you really need (and don't need).
3. Have a budget that includes anticipated and unanticipated extra expenses.
4. Comparison shop for completeness, not just price.
5. Make sure the engine you buy will work with parts you already have.
6. Make sure the engine you buy will work with other parts you buy.

BREAK-IN TIPS FOR CRATE ENGINES
Congratulations. You made all the right decisions and are the proud owner of a crate engine that fits your budget, fits your style of hot rodding, and fits into the engine compartment. But before you turn the key and head for the highway, that new crate engine needs to be broken in.

First step is to check the oil level. Never assume that the oil level is correct from the factory. Prime the engine by turning the oil pump drive using an electric drill, while a helper rotates the crankshaft with a socket. Add coolant. A 50/50 ratio of new antifreeze and water is recommended. Connect the electric fan and make sure it is functioning properly. Ben Smeding, of Smeding Performance, even recommends running a large shop electric fan in front of your car (or at least a large one borrowed from your house) to keep the car cool during break-in.

Set the timing to recommended specifications, finding top dead center for the number one piston on the compression stroke. Install the distributor and plug wires if they haven't been added. Check for proper distributor cap placement. Check the carburetor. The carburetor should follow the cfm and jetting recommendations of the manufacturer of your engine. Running the carb a little rich during the initial startup will help avoid burning a valve. A couple of turns of the idle screw should do it. Add gasoline to the float bowls. Check that the thermostat and water pump belt are tightened to proper specifications. Make sure the exhaust system is installed. Open pipes will sound impressive, but you need to be able to hear if there are any unusual engine noises that would indicate potential problems.

Chock the wheels and set the emergency brake. Start the engine. Have an assistant start the car so you can control the throttle from under the hood. If it doesn't fire up right away, check that the carburetor is getting adequate fuel. If the engine is backfiring, check the timing and the spark plug wires. Maintain engine rpm at 2,000 to 2,500 until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Reduce the rpm to idle and check the timing with a timing light. Continue to run the engine at 2,000-2,500 for 20 to 30 minutes to break in the cam and to make sure oil has reached all components. Check for any leaks during this time.

After the initial run period, change the oil and filter while the engine is still warm. Reset the carburetor idle speed and mixture for normal driving conditions. Drive the car under easy driving conditions for 50-100 miles. Load the engine by quickly accelerating from 30 to 50 mph, bringing the engine speed to about 5,000 rpm, then coasting back down to 30 in gear. Repeat this 10 or 12 times to help seat the piston rings.

Change the oil and filter after the initial drive. For the first 500 or 600 miles of normal driving, the valvetrain components will break in. Avoid excessive acceleration and heavy load, and vary your speed when driving on the highway. Change the oil and filter after 600 miles, and again at 1,200 miles. At this point, the engine is well broken in. Following this procedure will increase your chances of long engine life and maximized, reliable performance.

TESTIMONIALS
It would be difficult to find someone opposed to the concept of a fresh crate engine ready to run at a cost below that of a rebuild of a tired old engine that will still need a ton of parts to bring it even close to the hardware included with most crate engines. We're adding the testimonials of two individuals, because together they have personally seen the development and positive aspects of the crate engine concept from the very beginning. Our first testimonial comes from renowned rod builder Roy Brizio.

R&C: Roy, you've used just about every crate engine available in your projects. What makes them so great?

Roy: Unless we're using an early engine not available in crate form, brand-new factory crate engines are the only way to go.

R&C: Why is that?

Roy: From our experience, it's all on the upside. You're able, these days, to pick up the phone and order just about any engine you can dream up. With the crate engine, you have less builder error, and if there ever should be a problem, just make another call to enact your warranty. Try that when you have a "friend" build an engine and you might be losing a friend and still be out one engine.

R&C: Do you think added piece of mind comes with the purchase of a crate engine for your hot rod?

Roy: Yes, definitely. Knowing that your engine is 100-percent brand-new and came down the same assembly line as millions of other brand-new engines adds a feeling that their hot rod will be as reliable as a brand-new car.

R&C: Any one supplier better than another?

Roy: I've worked with them all, and they all have worked out great. If I want something stock I use GM and Ford Performance, and if I need something a little more special, I work with Edelbrock or Roush.

Our next testimonial comes from rodder, racer, and retired GM mechanic Dan Clifton. Currently he enjoys his homebuilt '31 Ford roadster running a GM Performance crate engine and also spins wrenches on the Goodguys Rod & Custom Association's 426 Hemi-powered Speed Sport roadster.

R&C: Tell us about your crate engine.

Dan: Well, it's an aluminum Vortec head equipped 350 with a GM Performance 430hp camshaft I added.

R&C: It's a homebuilt car. Why a crate engine over self-built?

Dan: I worked for GM my whole career. I saw what they did with their engine program and I installed many of the engines in different cars. They simply do a fantastic job!

R&C: Any surprises with your engine?

Dan: Nope. All I had to do was add a carburetor, a little gas, and a battery and I was ready to hit the street.

R&C: So you drive your car?

Dan: All the time! I broke it in on a cross-country trip to Indianapolis for a Goodguys event. Trouble-free all the way!

R&C: Would you recommend a crate engine to your friends?

Dan: I already have many times!