Two-Piece Driveshaft Technology

For even higher-performance...

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Both designs may or may not use a carrier bearing depending on your specific application. Parameters that will determine the type of carrier bearing (pedestal or U-bracket style) you use will depend on the space available, among other things. Consult your driveshaft specialist to determine what type of joint and support bearing your driveshaft requires.

When setting up a one-piece driveshaft, all the experts agree that the engine and transmission should be set in the chassis with the rear approximately 3 degrees below horizontal (a magnetic protractor can be used to check this angle). In the rear, the angle of the rearend pinion will be set to 3 degrees above horizontal. When the car is finished with all the weight added you should recheck the pinion angle. If any added weight has changed the pinion angle, correct it. Leaf spring-equipped vehicles can be adjusted with shims available from alignment shops, and on four-link-equipped vehicles, the links are designed to be adjusted to dial in a perfect pinion angle.

All three working angles should...

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Angle setup for two-piece shafts is similar to the one-piece. All three working angles should add up to zero. The easiest way to do this is to mount the front shaft section so it has zero degrees through the joint at the transmission. The rear shaft may then be treated as if it were a single shaft. Sometimes this is not possible and all three angles must be juggled to arrive at zero. It is a good idea to allow for some up and down adjustment at the center support mount so the angles may be tuned as necessary once the car is driven. Vehicles that do not have the proper angles set in the driveline components will experience pulsations that will cause vibration in seats, mirrors, gearshift levers, and other miscellaneous parts. These pulsations can also destroy transmission clutch packs, tailshaft housings, rearend bearings, gear sets, and axles. Another concern in this area is a compound angle that comes about if the centerline of the differential is not in direct line with the centerline of the engine and transmission. Luckily most rodders are visual conscious when setting up the rearend and use housings with the pumpkin centered perfectly in the center of the vehicle. Pay equal attention to avoid any compound angles while setting up the engine/trans relationship to the rearend. Setting up the components right from the beginning can save a lot of frustration and costly repairs down the road.

Once the components have been properly set up on both ends it's time to measure for your new driveshaft. When it came time to figure out each of the two-piece shafts' lengths, Frick states, "There is no hard and fast law governing shaft lengths. It is customary, though, to divide the overall length 40-percent front and 60-percent rear. Our experience with motorhome manufacturers has taught us not to make either shaft, especially the front shaft, shorter than 18 inches. Available crossmembers, frame obstacles, and U-joint angle cancellation will all play their part in dividing up the span." Both Denny's Driveshafts and Inland Empire Driveline make this process easy with detailed instructions and order forms on their Web sites. What you'll need to know is what type of transmission you are using (for slip yoke spline application) and what size U-joint you are using at the third member yoke. When making your measurements, the vehicle must be on the ground at operating height (jacking up the vehicle will change your dimensions). Measuring for a two-piece drive shaft is similar to measuring for a one-piece unit. The major difference involves noting the location of the carrier bearing for the driveshaft joint if one is being used.