IFS Fatman Frame Stub - Clip Art

Fatman includes 1/8-inch steel plate for making internal gussets to help align the stub and support the weld joint. For extra strength, Andy drilled holes in the original frame and the stub so he could plug-weld the gusset plates.

Here's a look at the bare Fatman stub. The company has versions designed to fit dozens of cars from the '30s, '40s, '50s, and '60s.

With a little muscle-and some "convincing" with a hammer-the new stub slid into place over the gussets. Fatman usually allows for a 1/4-inch weld gap between the stub and the original frame.

Before doing any welding, it's smart to check your reference points and measurements to make sure everything is aligned. Andy used his jig to verify proper positioning. After tack welding the stub in place, Fatman highly recommends double-checking all measurements, trial-fitting the radiator core support and front sheetmetal, and even mocking up the suspension to make sure the wheels are positioned well in their openings. Now is the time to find any problems and make adjustments.

When he was happy with the fit, Andy proceeded to solidly weld the stub to the frame.

For extra strength, Andy made external gussets for the sides of the frame joints. For a cleaner appearance, he made small transition plates for the top and bottom where the original frame was slightly taller than the stub.

The only other welding necessary was to attach the lower control arm gussets to the crossmember.

With the stub in place, Andy assembled the suspension. Fatman uses polished stainless steel control arms in all of its new hub-to-hub kits, and includes all necessary parts-brakes, bearings, rack-and-pinion assembly, and so forth-for getting the car back on the ground. The instructions also offered advice on installing engine mounts (which are available from Fatman) and connecting the steering.