When it comes to traditional custom techniques, the use of lead is right there at the forefront. Way before plastic body fillers were available, lead was the medium of choice, used by the OEM factories to smooth seamed joints, and copied-and taken several steps further-by the pioneers of the kustom movement. Pioneers like Sam and George at Barris Kustom, Bill Hines, and their contemporaries.
But leading is becoming a lost art, despite the resurgence in popularity of all things kustom. Not in Brad Masterson's world though. At just 29 years old, he's fortunate enough to have worked for both Barris and Hines-in fact he still does work for the latter-and all the kustoms that roll out of his own "after school" shop are traditionally styled and created. Sure, plastic filler has its place, but the majority of the work is handled the traditional way-with a torch and lead paddles.
The process isn't as hard as you'd imagine either, though it obviously takes a lot of practice, but then show us something worthwhile that doesn't! Check out the steps involved as we followed Brad through frenching and leading the headlights on a shoebox Ford. The good old days are happening right now.
Stay Safe!
Exposure to lead presents a minimal hazard, but it should be respected nevertheless. It can affect the blood, kidneys, nervous, and reproductive systems, so handling it, melting it, and filing it should be tackled with care. Lead can enter the body through inhalation or ingestion, so take care to wash your hands after handling it, and take precautions, preferably using respiratory equipment, so as not to breathe the fumes while melting lead.
We'll assume you know how...
We'll assume you know how to remove a headlight from the fender (if not, remove the screw holding the trim ring on and then remove the four screws holding the headlight bucket to the fender).
The lip is trimmed from the...
The lip is trimmed from the headlight bucket, as well as the removal of the bracket to which the trim ring screws. This enables the bucket to sit flush against the rear of the opening.
Using a soft pad on a grinder,...
Using a soft pad on a grinder, Brad grinds the primer from the area he will be welding to. He also did likewise on the headlight ring, which is then positioned and marked to ensure both sides were similar.
Before the fun begins, Brad...
Before the fun begins, Brad needs to drill a drain hole at the lowest point of the headlight ring.
The fender area is slowly...
The fender area is slowly heated along with the end of a stick of lead as it is applied to the fender. It's important to not overheat the area and cause the metal to warp.
Brad welds the new ring to...
Brad welds the new ring to the fender. "Old school" is a very overused term, but it aptly describes Brad's methods, as he gas welds. He doesn't possess a MIG welder.
Brad fires up the torch and...
Brad fires up the torch and heats the metal with a soft flame (you don't want it too hot), applying tinning flux with an acid brush to give the lead a good base to adhere to.
Brad continues to carefully...
Brad continues to carefully heat it some more to allow the lead to melt and flow over the tinned area.
The majority of the lead is...
The majority of the lead is then wiped off with a rag and allowed to drop to the floor, leaving the area suitably tinned. Brad repeats this process around the headlight ring.
Using a little heat from the...
Using a little heat from the torch to keep the lead in a semi-molten state, Brad works it with a wooden paddle.
He continues to build the...
He continues to build the lead up to the desired thickness and contour. You can see it's getting smoother compared to the previous picture.
As Brad works his way down...
As Brad works his way down the side of the fender, we get a good look at how the lead was built up on the crown.
With the tinning done, he...
With the tinning done, he again warms the fender and the end of a lead stick and applies it to the work area.
Using a smaller paddle, Brad...
Using a smaller paddle, Brad works the tighter curve between the light and the hood opening. You can also see how he keeps the lead sticks close to hand, as it's surprising how quickly they are used up.
With the leading complete,...
With the leading complete, the vast improvement over stock can already be seen. Breaking out the body files, the lead takes shape.
A 50/50 mix solution of lacquer...
A 50/50 mix solution of lacquer thinner and wax and grease remover with a splash of acetone (what's this, a cocktail menu?) is brushed on to remove any traces of the acid, then again wiped with a clean rag.
Lead is pretty soft and easily...
Lead is pretty soft and easily worked, much like body filler before it totally cures. The files remove lead rapidly, and the lead is hand-sanded with 150-grit sandpaper once it's filed to the desired contour.
With the sanding done, Brad...
With the sanding done, Brad uses steel wool to thoroughly clean the area with metal prep, an acid that etches into the surface.
Spot the difference! The frenched...
Spot the difference! The frenched version appears sleeker and more modern, which was the whole point of such an exercise back in the day, and still holds true today.
You're not going to get very...
You're not going to get very far working with lead without an oxyacetylene torch and bottles, and a set of paddles.
Brad has a mint copy of the...
Brad has a mint copy of the Barris Kustom price list from when the shop was located in Lynwood, CA.