Miller's 1929 Ford Roadster Pickup - Building the Removable Aluminum Hardtop

A top bough starts with two straight pieces of 1/2-in. square aluminum bar stock about 6 ft. long. "We're going a little 'old school' to make these bends and just use good eyeball judgment," said Pat. Shown here, he simply uses a small worktable to hand bend the stock.

Rather than trying to bend one piece of stock with two equal radii at each end and get it to match the width of the car (which is nearly impossible), the team bends one end first and gets an angle they find pleasing. This photo shows Pat (center), Ron (left) and Miller District Manager Robert Shepard (right) marking the approximate center of the bough and checking its height.

Pat takes a second piece of bar stock and bends it so that the radius matches the first piece. He doesn't worry about extra length on either side of the bend.

Now that they have two pieces of stock with matching bends, Pat and Robert clamp the two rear bow pieces to the window frame (at extreme left) and in the center while Robert eyeballs the frame height. Note the overlap in the center.

The two pieces of a top bough become one perfectly sized piece when they are cut to length and welded using a Dynasty 200 DX TIG welder. The technique of bending two pieces and making them one allowed the roadster fabrication team to complete this portion of the project without any scrap and lost production time.

To shape the rear window, Ron has another trick to bevel the metal inward. Start by cutting the desired shape and size for the window out of wood. Use a router to bevel and curve the wood. Use a plasma cutter to cut the window out of aluminum slightly larger than the size of the beveled wood. Place the aluminum sheet over the cut piece of wood and using a hammer, lightly tap and shape the metal to match the form of the wood. Always start at one end and work toward the other ensuring a smooth bend.

Ron and Robert position the window in the center of the car and measure for the correct height from the front of the hardtop frame. Extra window material will be cut off creating equal heights at the front and back for the cab.

Pick your aluminum grade with their applications in mind. Use 3003 for making creative bends, as this metal is quite malleable. However if you need a structural component use 6061; it's harder due to its tensile strength and will stay flat and straight. For these two purposes, don't just use what's lying around the garage. Here Pat sizes the bar stock that will be welded into place as the frame for the rear window.

Welding in hard to reach spots? Here's a tip?The advanced square wave technology of a Dynasty 200 DX enables you to tailor the arc to different applications. For the roadster crew, increasing the output frequency to 125 Hz or more produces a narrow focused arc that ensures good penetration on small pieces while preventing burn through.

To get the shape of the skin right the first time, take this tip from Ron, hold a sheet of paper up and trace the piece needed with a pencil or the edge of a dirty thumb.

Tracing the paper template onto the aluminum sheet, make the size slightly larger than needed which will make up for any errors in tracing. It's always good to have a little more than not enough.

Ron uses a Spectrum 625 plasma cutter to cut the desired shape quickly and with no distortion to the stock.

Pat matches the skin to the frame for size before finally welding it into place. This process is repeated across all surfaces forming the exterior of the hardtop.

After all the welds and were complete, Billy Scott of Scotts Jr. Interiors upholstered the hardtop with Mercedes Cloth on the outside and ostrich hide and suede on the inside.

The view from inside shows a close attention to detail. Billy installed an ostrich hide ornament that matches the seat upholstery, tying the hardtop and interior together.

Top on or top off, this roadster is ready for a cruise!