1927 Touring Body Gets Work- Filling Fine

While we here at R&C, as well as other magazines, love to bring you features on cars in bare metal, it's a fact that few of us can afford to have a car metal-finished prior to paint, and that most of our projects will get some mud slung at them before the primer goes on. All well and good if you're paying a bodyshop or calling in a favor, but what if you want to tackle the task yourself? While it's getting more and more difficult to apply automotive paint at home, the prep work is still achievable, even if it is a long, dusty, and dirty job.

Take this '27 touring body for instance. Everything up to the point of laying on the topcoat was tackled in a residential garage with a small 1hp compressor, which just about handled the DA sander and the spray gun when it came time for primer.

Since we're on the subject of primer, while today's primers are capable of being filled over without shrinkage around the repair showing through the final topcoat, this body had old primer on it that had been handled with greasy hands innumerable times, and it was deemed sensible to sand back to bare metal prior to filling any areas that required it. Plus, the filler will only stick to the body as well as the primer or paint beneath it, and if you're going to put all this work into a body, it makes sense to give the filler the best foundation possible. OK, let's get down 'n' dirty...

If you're going to tackle...        read full caption If you're going to tackle any filler work you'll need the right tools for the job. Here we have three flexible sanding blocks, the longer two of which have three removable rods running their length which can be removed to make the blocks more flexible for sanding curved areas, as we'll see. The longboard sander at the bottom of the picture is an old rigid version. At top center is a DA (dual action) orbital sander. Electric versions of these are available and may work for the hobbyist.	You'll also need sanding paper...        read full caption You'll also need sanding paper of various grits for the sanders. The longboard paper is 80-grit, and can be cut down for the various length sanding blocks, while the adhesive-backed round paper is for the DA sander and we used 40-, 80-, and 220-grit (not shown). These are also available in a Velcro-type backing, depending on your preference and what pad you have on your DA. The adhesive-backed discs can also be wrapped around the small sanding block. It always pays to use quality sanding paper, as it'll last much longer than the cheaper versions.	Equip yourself with a number...        read full caption Equip yourself with a number of good-quality breathing masks too, as you really don't want to be inhaling filler dust.
While we'll not get involved...        read full caption While we'll not get involved in panel-beating here, this is a good example of a high spot that revealed itself when the old primer on this '27 touring body was sanded down (arrow). This needs to be addressed before any filler work can progress. You can fill a dent but there's no hiding a high spot with filler!	In contrast to the high spot...        read full caption In contrast to the high spot in the previous picture, here we have low spots as indicated by the areas of primer. These will need the primer removed before they can be filled, as the filler will only bond as well as the old primer beneath it.	Sanding the area between the...        read full caption Sanding the area between the doors with 40-grit paper on the DA revealed waves in the panel as well as lead along the lower section. This whole area was cleaned of primer and will be filled. Often bodymen will cover the entire body with filler in order to get it completely smooth, but the owner of this '27 only wanted the minimum of repairs done, as he was keen for it to retain its steel appearance and not smoothed until it resembled a 'glass body.
These shallow dents (arrows)...        read full caption These shallow dents (arrows) were obvious on the rear door prior to sanding, but are even more visible now. A light skim of filler is all they require, not being deep enough to warrant panel-beating, unless a metal-finished body is what you're after.	While it's possible to use...        read full caption While it's possible to use cardboard as a mixing board for filler, it's not ideal as it will soak up the resin from the filler. These plastic mixing boards are available from your local jobber and are inexpensive. Just be sure to clean the board with acetone between applications, before the filler on it cures, and it will stay clean.	The filler won't harden without...        read full caption The filler won't harden without the correct amount of activator, and the curing time is also dependent on the temperature.
Mix in the activator slowly...        read full caption Mix in the activator slowly to prevent air bubbles from forming during the mixing process. You'll be able to tell when it's mixed as it'll take on a uniform color. It's still streaky here as it's not fully mixed.	Both metal and plastic spreaders...        read full caption Both metal and plastic spreaders are available, and it really depends on your preference. Different sizes are used for different applications. Once the filler is mixed, load the spreader with enough for the section you're working on and pull it toward you, covering the dent but not leaving an excessive amount on the panel. You'll only waste it and give yourself more work when sanding it off!	Small dents like this can...        read full caption Small dents like this can generally be filled with one spread. If a dent is so large that it requires two spreads, you may want to think about panel-beating it to shape first.
It will come with experience,...        read full caption It will come with experience, but try to only mix enough filler for the job in hand. Depending on the temperature and the amount of activator used, it will "go off" relatively quickly, and will not only be a waste of material, but will make cleanup harder once it's cured. You'll have very little time between it starting to cure and becoming hard as shown.	Here's that door again after...        read full caption Here's that door again after being roughly sanded to shape using the DA sander with 40-grit. The filler on the door still needs taking down further, but owing to those 40-grit swirl scratches, enough filler was left in order to take it down again with 80-grit on a block, eliminating the scratches. Some bodymen prefer to start with 80-grit. It comes down to preference and how you were taught, but however it's done, progressively using finer grit paper is the way to go.	Here's a good shot of how...        read full caption Here's a good shot of how the adhesive-backed 80-grit paper attaches to the sanding block.
That door again, about to...        read full caption That door again, about to be sanded with 80-grit on a block. You might be able to see the swirl scratches left by the 40-grit on the DA sander.	It's not just dents and waves...        read full caption It's not just dents and waves that need filler, as many hot rod bodies will have heavy rust pitting. This '27 was media blasted at some point prior to primer, so the rust has been eliminated, leaving these craters in the sheetmetal on the cowl.	While any actual rust holes...        read full caption While any actual rust holes were welded, the pitting can be filled. A metal reinforced filler was used for this. Note its metallic appearance. This is mixed with activator in the same manner as the regular plastic filler.
A large area on top of the...        read full caption A large area on top of the cowl was pitted, so the whole section received a skim of filler. With practice you'll be able to "pull" an even spread as shown. Whether you use metal or plastic spreaders, they can be bent to match the curvature of the panel.	Again using the DA sander...        read full caption Again using the DA sander to rough shape the filler, it can be seen that the pitting has been filled with the metallic filler. This stuff dries rock hard and can be hard to sand if not tackled shortly after it's cured.	It may look daunting having...        read full caption It may look daunting having to apply this much filler, but it's easier than trying to tackle many small areas, and it'll only end up as a thin skim coat once it's sanded.
With the rods removed from...        read full caption With the rods removed from the longboard, it becomes flexible enough to sand the curved cowl area.	You can see from the sanding...        read full caption You can see from the sanding scratches (arrow) that the block isn't used in a back and forward motion, but rather at a 45-degree angle and following the curvature of the panel.	Moving to the rear wheelwell...        read full caption Moving to the rear wheelwell area, sometimes a bodyline will have to be formed in the filler, and here a good tip is to either use masking tape and sand to the edge of the tape, or spray a light guide coat from a rattle can onto the filler and use that as a guide. This area needs more work but you can see how the contrast between the guide-coated and sanded areas provides a reference for the required line.
Oftentimes you'll spot very...        read full caption Oftentimes you'll spot very small dents that you missed the first time around. These are easier to fill all at once, but remembering where they are means you'll invariably miss a couple. Stick a small piece of masking tape over each one then remove them as you fill the dents and that dilemma's solved.	With all repairs completed...        read full caption With all repairs completed in 80-grit, or even finer, they should then be gone over with 180- or 220-grit to smooth them even further, then the DA can be used with 220-grit to feather the edges of all repairs prior to priming. This is especially important if you're going to prime over the edge of old paint, as deep scratches may come back later to haunt you as shrinkage marks.	With all edges feathered and...        read full caption With all edges feathered and any sections of old primer or paint that will be primed over scuffed, you're ready for a high-build primer, but that's another story for another day.