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EZ Wiring Harness - Lightin' The FireInstalling An EZ Wiring Harness From the August, 2009 issue of Rod & Custom By Kev Elliott
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Here's the complete kit, supplied... Here's the complete kit, supplied by EZ Wiring, complete with the fuse box with wiring already attached, as well as flasher relays and plastic connectors to hook up to an ignition switch. Also included are headlight connectors, the necessary connectors to connect to a GM column and alternator, GM turn signal connectors, a pre-wired dimmer switch plug, a fusible link for the starter motor, cable ties, rubber grommet and instructions. I don't know about you but I'm perfectly happy fabricating chassis, welding and doing body and paintwork, and physically putting a car together, but I've always left the wiring in my projects to someone else. Of course, having a good friend who owned an auto-electrical company, and who was always happy to trade bodywork favors for wiring, meant I never really had to worry much, but he's on the other side of the planet now and so when it came time to wire my '46 I decided to bite the bullet and tackle the job myself. My cars are usually pretty basic with not much in the way of accessories-- not even a radio--so I figured a simple wiring harness with the minimum of circuits would work best for someone who'd never wired a car before. After a little research, EZ Wiring's 12-circuit harness looked perfect for my needs, so I called 'em up and ordered one. However, the project then somehow became relegated to the back burner for a couple of years, and it wasn't until I decided to drive the truck to Bonneville last year that I actually dug out the still-boxed kit and took the plunge. The installation was pretty straightforward and pain-free, if you disregard the couple of errors made by me and the need to fabricate a mount for the fuse box. Methodically following the instructions and breaking the job down into sections like engine harness, front of car, rear of car, and interior certainly made things easier, especially as I didn't unravel one section's wires until I'd completed the last. That way there weren't a whole bunch of wires all over the place. With the exception of the turn signal switch, everything worked fine the first time. Somewhat pleased with myself, I'll certainly tackle the wiring in the Project '49 Chevy myself, and may even move on to doing my own upholstery next. Er, maybe.  The mini fuse box supplied...  The mini fuse box supplied in my kit had specific little mounting tabs on the reverse, meaning I had to fabricate this mounting pad to enable it to be clicked into place for easy removal.  Here's the complete kit, supplied...  Here's the complete kit, supplied by EZ Wiring, complete with the fuse box with wiring already attached, as well as flasher relays and plastic connectors to hook up to an ignition switch. Also included are headlight connectors, the necessary connectors to connect to a GM column and alternator, GM turn signal connectors, a pre-wired dimmer switch plug, a fusible link for the starter motor, cable ties, rubber grommet and instructions.  Following EZ Wiring's recommendation...  Following EZ Wiring's recommendation I tackled the job in stages. The wires shown are all those that will be routed to the front of the truck, for the lights, turn signals, electric fan and horn. The engine harness was tackled separately, as was the dash and the wires to the rear of the truck. This way the number of wires unraveled at one time doesn't become overwhelming.  Each wire is clearly marked...  Each wire is clearly marked for its application, meaning even a novice like me would have a hard time making mistakes.  Once I'd run all the wires...  Once I'd run all the wires to the front of the truck and established they'd all reach their intended destinations, I used this plastic shrouding that I'd bought at the NSRA Street Rod Nationals to not only protect them, but also to ensure they'd be routed neatly through the engine compartment. I chose to use P-clips to route the wires along the top of the driver's side inner fender, using the bolts that bolt the inner and outer fender together to secure them.  With the wires run to each...  With the wires run to each headlight opening, I could connect them to the EZ-supplied headlight connectors, the connections made inside each headlight bucket.  If you're going to tackle...  If you're going to tackle wiring, you'll need some tools. The basics to get you by should include crimpers, cutters, wire strippers (nice but not essential), a test light, and a multi-meter.  A selection of terminals will...  A selection of terminals will also be required. You can purchase kits, such as how this started as, though you'll soon know which items you need more of and customize your kit to suit your needs.  While it's possible to strip...  While it's possible to strip the insulation from wires using a craft knife or similar, you'll be thankful for investing in wire strippers such as these. Pulling the trigger first clamps the wire in the jaws, then the blades pull back, removing the insulation, in one fell swoop.  While you may solder each...  While you may solder each joint should you so wish (and we'll cover that in a later article), I elected to crimp each connection. Though not a fancy spring loaded crimp tool that ensures the correct pressure is applied to each joint, these crimpers have served me faithfully for years.  Note how the crimpers "squash"...  Note how the crimpers "squash" the metal part of the terminal against the bare end of the wire, inside the terminal's insulation. Ensure you have a tight connection with no movement of the wire in the terminal.  Available in hardware stores,...  Available in hardware stores, I prefer to use heat shrink wrap on all crimped connections that are exposed to the elements, such as those to the rear lights, fuel pump, and even those under the hood, such as the electric fan. Shrink wrap is more effective than insulation tape, and won't unravel over time. While a heat gun should be used to shrink the wrap, a lighter can be used if you're not near an electrical outlet.  With the wiring to the front...  With the wiring to the front of the truck completed, I moved on to wiring the engine, again routing the wires before feeding them into the plastic shrouding. Always use rubber grommets when routing wires through a firewall or similar.  Another helpful inclusion...  Another helpful inclusion in the EZ-Wiring kit is this alternator plug, simplifying the wiring to this component.  Should you be running an electric...  Should you be running an electric choke, you can ground it to itself, though you may need star wrenches to do so.  With the engine compartment...  With the engine compartment completed, I tackled the interior. Even though I opted for the 12-circuit kit, there were still a number of circuits I didn't require, such as the third brake light, power antenna or the oil pressure sender wire (I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge). I also didn't require the alternator exciter wire as I used a one-wire alternator. Rather than cut them short or remove them, I coiled them up and zip-tied them up under the dash. You never know whether I'll need them in the future.  You'll need some additional...  You'll need some additional components if you're wiring from scratch, such as a headlight dimmer switch, water temperature sender, ignition switch, brake light switch, and gauges, plus you can never have enough zip-ties. Most of these were sourced from my local auto parts store.  Likewise you'll need switches....  Likewise you'll need switches. On the right is a SO-CAL Speed Shop switch, while on the left is a Chevy headlight switch that I bought years ago for my '49 Chevy. As the terminals on the Chevy switch matched the EZ Wiring instructions, I opted to make use of it on the pickup.  This compact brake light switch...  This compact brake light switch was sourced at the auto parts store, though I needed to add a small bracket to the pedal assembly to mount it. Turns out it kept blowing fuses, as when it activated it grounded through the metal parts, meaning I had to insulate it after this picture was taken.  EZ supply these ready-wired...  EZ supply these ready-wired connectors for a GM column-mounted ignition switch but as I was using an aftermarket dash-located ignition, I had to remove the connector blocks.  We won't show all the EZ Wiring...  We won't show all the EZ Wiring instructions, but they're pretty clear in the main, as this ignition switch diagram shows.  A good ground is imperative....  A good ground is imperative. I elected to drill and tap the steel under-dash framework and use a bolt to secure a number of grounds in one location, after I'd removed the paint of course.  If you're including a removable...  If you're including a removable dash panel, or in this case an indicator switch panel, it's a good idea to make the wiring removable for future servicing. Better to work on the bench than on your back under the dash huh?  The flasher units come pre-wired...  The flasher units come pre-wired in the EZ kit, but with no mounts. I fabricated this little panel from aluminum angle and mounted it to the brake pedal bracket. The flashers simply sit in the holes and are easily accessible.  The only head-scratching moment...  The only head-scratching moment with the installation came when it came time to wire the aftermarket turn signal switch. With a number of such switches on the market, the EZ instructions can't be expected to show diagrams for them all, but call `em and tell 'em what you have and they should be able to help you hook it up.  Here's the complete kit, supplied...  Here's the complete kit, supplied by EZ Wiring, complete with the fuse box with wiring already attached, as well as flasher relays and plastic connectors to hook up to an ignition switch. Also included are headlight connectors, the necessary connectors to connect to a GM column and alternator, GM turn signal connectors, a pre-wired dimmer switch plug, a fusible link for the starter motor, cable ties, rubber grommet and instructions. EZ Q&A
We asked Sean Schlobom of EZ Wiring to clear up some commonly asked questions regarding wiring, as well as to give us a couple of important dos and don'ts. Here's what he had to say: R&C
Bad grounds are probably high on the list of causes of wiring faults. What can be done to ensure a good ground, and if I'm building a 'glass car, what's the best way to get a good ground throughout the vehicle? EZ
You need a good clean connection for a good ground. Make sure the metal is not painted where you're connecting the ground. In a 'glass car, to ensure a good ground throughout the vehicle, use a ground bus (a terminal block wired directly to the chassis) at the front of the vehicle, one for the interior and another at the rear. All grounds can be fed into these busses, knowing they have a good connection to the frame. R&C
When are relays needed? EZ
They're required any time a higher amperage component runs continuously, such as Halogen headlights, electric fan, horn or fuel pumps. A relay allows a device to draw power right from the battery. R&C
What is a fusible link, and when is it preferable to use one over a Maxi fuse? EZ
A fusible link protects the fuse panel, and protects a wire two gauges larger than itself. For instance in an EZ Wiring kit, a 10-gauge wire is protected by a 14-gauge fusible link. In my opinion it's better than a Maxi fuse as it's hard to determine what size fuse to use, and fuses don't react quickly enough. When a system is loaded to above capacity a fusible link will burn off and protect the fuse panel. R&C
How does length of wire affect gauge size, or is resistance negligible in the length of wire in a car? I know your kits come ready to fit so this isn't relevant but how do you determine what gauge wire to use for specific amperages? EZ
Today's wire is better than that available in the past. With cross link polyethylene wire such as used by most aftermarket harness manufacturers, we can use a smaller gauge wire than we did previously. I'd always recommend checking with the manufacturer of a component or device to determine what gauge wire to use, Resistance is pretty negligible in the lengths of wires used in the average car, but the longer the distance, the larger the gauge wire should be used. R&C
How many circuits do I really need if I'm building a bare-bones traditional highboy? (no radio, electric fan, etc.) EZ
A 12-circuit harness will be more than enough for a basic hot rod. R&C
Why do my lights seem to dim or get bright depending on the engine rpm? EZ
If the lights are dim, I'd first check for a bad ground at the light, but fluctuating brightness is usually caused by an inefficient alternator. You may need the next size larger, as the charging system is working its hardest at engine idle speed. The most common size alternator we find on hot rods that use a number of electrical systems like electric windows and fans is an 80-100amp version. R&C
What's the best way to trace a short? And if my battery goes flat after sitting for a day or two, how can I find out why? EZ
A draw test works best in these instances. Remove the negative battery cable and clip the negative side of a test light to the negative battery cable, and the positive side of the light to the positive battery terminal. If the light comes on you have a short somewhere. 95 percent of the time it is in the charging system. To determine this, disconnect the alternator and see if the test light goes out. If not then start pulling fuses one by one and conduct a draw test each time, until you find the circuit that has the short. R&C
Would you recommend crimping or soldering connections? EZ
It's very much down to the installer's preference. Cold solder is the same as a bad connection, but if you prefer soldering, go ahead. If you want to crimp, ensure you use good quality crimping tools. R&C
How do I determine the size of battery (measured in Cold Cranking Amps--indicated on the battery itself) I need for my application? EZ
I'm always of the opinion that bigger is better. The more compression your engine has, the more cold cranking amps it will require to start it. Check what your engine would need in a stock configuration, and use a battery of at least that size. R&C
You must have a list of important "do's" and "don'ts" especially the latter. EZ
Don't clean up your harness installation as you go when wiring from scratch. Always check the operation before zip-tying or taping. Don't wire the engine and start it before finishing the rest of the harness. Do lay the harness out first to determine the location of components. For example, if you use an electric fuel pump, our kit assumes it'll be mounted in the rear, but some people mount them in the engine compartment. Do use a notebook to make notes as you go, especially when pulling the old wiring out of your project. Taking pictures can help too.
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