The improvisation is bypassing...
The improvisation is bypassing the steering column harness and feeding the brake lights directly from the hydraulic switch on the master cylinder. The running or park lights feed as-intended from the headlight switch.
Running into "snags" isn't...
Running into "snags" isn't uncommon, especially when attempting to route wiring through a lengthy piece of enclosed framerail. To help avoid that, not to mention skinned knuckles, try using one of those inexpensive spring-loaded extractors with the small metal claws to pull rather than push.
As with the headlights, the...
As with the headlights, the taillights (re-pops from Bowtie Bits) were wired in the same fashion with a single harness that splices off to the right-side lamp. Unlike the headlights, though, when the signals do get incorporated, it'll require a full-length feed for both lights from the column plug, so the brown (park) wire will be the only portion unaffected.
Finally, some light at the...
Finally, some light at the end of the tunnel ...or is that gauge illumination? The final stage of the initial install can end up being one of the easiest steps to accomplish depending on the type of instrumentation used-as was the case here, with the "bulk" of the labor simply getting set aside ... literally.
This is all the '39 required:...
This is all the '39 required: fuel gauge (orange/black), grounds (black), lights (gray with bulb socket), and 12-volt lead (red/white) for main power/voltmeter. If you'll notice, the termination point for that last gauge connection is non-existent-the stock ammeter will be converted internally to a voltmeter, as a recent bad experience with the prehistoric method won't allow the use of such potentially "explosive" equipment!
Jeff at Bowtie Bits did an...
Jeff at Bowtie Bits did an amazing job restoring the '39's original gauges, from the aesthetics to the delicate mechanical sending units and 12-volt upgrade. It doesn't get much simpler than this.
At the moment, the almost-complete...
At the moment, the almost-complete dash is one of the biggest visual highlights of the Chevy ... right next to the Highway 15 Nostalgia kit that is! It'll be a shame hiding that cluster behind a big ol' '41 DeLuxe steering wheel, but it'll eventually have to happen if this project's ever to see the light of day.
Save for that obvious bundle...
Save for that obvious bundle of ignition wire (a safety precaution done so as not to get shorted lengthwise if the fuse panel ended up getting relocated behind the dash), the seat pan confines wound up pretty neat and tidy. What's better, everything from the battery to the fuses will be easily accessible just by lifting the seat bottom rather than having to pull up carpet or get all contorted up under the steering wheel.
Crimping Tips & Precautions
All terminal crimps are not created equal. That saying can be interpreted a number of ways, but the one that's probably most important here is how crimps are created on the end user's behalf. But even before that should be considered, what's equally as vital is having proper knowledge, as well as the tooling, prior to performing a crimp. Basically, it's not the common insulated/non-insulated terminals that are a major concern (though that doesn't mean the accuracy of said crimps is any less crucial), but certain types of open-barrel connectors-namely the Delphi Packard "F-type"-designed to be crimped not by hand, but by a high-speed production machine. See where this is going? Where there's a will (or make that the proper procedure and correct tool), usually there'll be a way.
Despite what some pocket-protector, armor-shielded geek may have told you, it can be done, but without a doubt, have your handy soldering kit ready-unless you'd rather stock your garage with boxes of connectors during the learning process?! The following shows the process of manually crimping a Delphi terminal-and what you can do to secure it, even if the initial crimp isn't quite as sufficient as you'd like it to be. Also, be aware that American Autowire has a tool rental program specifically for situations like this-keep that in mind, as specialty crimpers aren't cheap.
An F-crimp requires two steps-crimping...
An F-crimp requires two steps-crimping the open wire in the core wings followed by the insulating wing crimp, which isn't meant to "hold" as much as the initial crimp, but provide support and prevent the exposed wire from bending.
For smaller gauge wire (14-22...
For smaller gauge wire (14-22 and smaller), you can find affordable crimpers like the ones shown. (For heavier gauge, if you can't find what you need, rely on American Autowire's tool rental program.) Form the initial core wing crimp first, always making sure the terminal is positioned correctly to avoid any damage to the connector portion.
Visually, an F-type crimp...
Visually, an F-type crimp should have these characteristics. Looks may not always be everything, but in this case, they are, as they'll tell you whether or not you've achieved a proper crimp that will hold and conduct current as intended.
After performing both crimps,...
After performing both crimps, test the holding strength by giving the terminal a light tug to ensure no dislodging of the wire. It didn't take much effort at all to dislodge the wire from this poorly crimped terminal, but it still can be used since neither the terminal nor the exposed wire were damaged.
A decent soldering outfit...
A decent soldering outfit will solve the dilemma. Just make sure the iron of choice puts out enough wattage to handle the job-the bigger the AWG wire size, the more power required (60-100 watts for general size applications).
Using a rosin-core lead solder,...
Using a rosin-core lead solder, once the wire is crimped, add a small amount of solder above the core wings-just enough to provide a good hold. Too much solder/heat can result in a brittle connection that could easily break. And contrary to what some suggest, don't pre-tin the terminal or wire prior to crimping, as that will just turn the core strands into a solid wire and prevent a good crimp at all.