Before the use of English wheels, planishing hammers, shrinkers, stretchers, and other various specialized metal-shaping tools became common, customizing was all about hammers, dollies, torches, and of course, a customizer's ingenuity. Customizers used anything and everything, literally, to achieve the look and shape they were after ...the true definition of "old school", if you will.
In the beginning, '53 Studebaker pans, '52 Ford rings, '54 Buick port holes, and other assorted sheetmetal pieces pirated from any and all makes and models of automobiles were used to distinguish whatever project occupied the garage floor to a designer's taste. However, as things progressed and imaginations ran wild, it was apparent a new method was going to have to be employed in order to create shapes and designs never before seen. Enter steel rods. The solution laid in the form of the common steel rod, which can be bent, shaped, and formed into curves, crowns, convexes, and more, to craft an outline of a shape. From there, these steel "skeletons" could be skinned with sheetmetal.
It's arguable who began using this method first, but one thing is for sure, once the word was out, it swept the hobby by storm. It wasn't long before everyone from backyard warriors to the top shops in the country were churning out customs and rods with handmade attributes. What intrigued the minds of many on the virtue of this method is the fact anyone could get into it at the drop of a dime-literally a drop of a 10-cent coin in those days! It didn't-and still doesn't-require expensive specialized tools, heaps of money, or years of training. Anyone with the determination and gall could head down to the local metal yard and pick up the necessary supplies and be on their way.
Here's what we're workin'...
Here's what we're workin' with: a '57 Cadillac Brougham. Originally, these cars came with stainless steel half skirts, however, this build calls for a full skirt that must be made from scratch.
Star Kustom Shop has been bending and forming steel rods since 1954; covering everything from the simplest of shapes, such as grill openings and taillights to the most complex of designs, for one-off custom creations. For the most part, 1/2-inch conduit is the weapon of choice, but for more intricate bends and curves, 3/8- and 1/4-inch steel rod are also thrown in the mix. All of these materials are malleable rods that can be bent over the knee, in a vice, over an old welding bottle, or any number of readily available items, making it perfect for DIY customizing. When it comes time for a sharp bend, the simple touch of a torch will alter the rod's composition like butter. For an in-depth look at this old-school method of customizing by conduit, follow along with Star Kustom as they bend, shape, and skin a fender skirt.
The first step for Dakota...
The first step for Dakota Wentz of Star Kustom is to create the perimeter framework. Because of the intricate custom bumper out back, the rear of the skirt calls for a sharp bend like an S. Therefore, a 3/8-inch steel rod was tacked to the bottom, and heat is used to form the rod to the contour of the bumper.
Next, the upper rail of the...
Next, the upper rail of the skirt is formed using 1/2-inch steel conduit.
What makes conduit such a...
What makes conduit such a great tool, and method, is it can be manipulated to just about any form. Using the highly coveted Knee Bender 2000 (all pieces of conduit in this story were bent using this specialized tool), a slight radius was created in the upper rail of the skirt to form a tight fit to the bodyline from the door opening back to the 3/8-inch rod.
Wentz then tacked the rail...
Wentz then tacked the rail to the body with the correct body gap (keep in mind the extra material-the skirt's sheetmetal-must be taken into account when setting the gap). Star Kustom uses flux-coated brass for this, due to the fact that when it comes time to remove the skeleton, all it takes is a little bit of heat and the frame is free.
The lower level of the skirt...
The lower level of the skirt is next in line. A piece of conduit connecting the upper and lower level of the skirt at the door is formed at this time as well.
With the perimeter of the...
With the perimeter of the skirt squared up, the inner structure is formed and tacked in place. The radius of these vertical braces must match the bodylines of the car because the sheetmetal will take on the contour of the vertical braces.
Here's a quick tip: When it...
Here's a quick tip: When it comes to connecting the rods, notch the ends of the perpendicular pieces with a set of tin snips for a precise fit.
In order to follow the contour...
In order to follow the contour of the body, and allow proper tire clearance, the inner braces were given more of a crown. It's key to insert an inner brace at any change of shape in the bodyline, that way, the skirt will flow with the body.
With the skeleton of the skirt...
With the skeleton of the skirt complete, it's time to make mounting tabs. Along the top rail of the skirt, Wentz has placed two L-shaped brackets, which act as upper mounts that tuck up behind the body. At both lower corners of the skirt a tab is welded inside. An identical tab, with a nut welded to it, is then welded just above on the body. Using this method, all it takes to secure the skirt is two bolts because the top tabs will lock themselves into position due to the applied pressure.
At this point the inner structure...
At this point the inner structure is complete and it is removed from the Caddy. But before doing so, the position of the wheel was transferred and marked on the frame.
Here's a shot of the completed...
Here's a shot of the completed skeleton of the skirt. Notice how the inner braces are bent at different radiuses; the sheetmetal will take that form and follow the Cad's bodylines.
By clamping the top of the...
By clamping the top of the skeleton to a piece of 18-gauge sheetmetal, Wentz can roll the framework back and trace its outline onto the sheetmetal. When cutting the sheetmetal, add an extra 1/2-inch of material past the trace line.
The sheetmetal is then clamped...
The sheetmetal is then clamped to the skeleton. Once again, notice how the sheetmetal has rolled into place and taken the form of the conduit.
Here's what the extra 1/2-inch...
Here's what the extra 1/2-inch of material was for: to be hammered back and folded along the back of the conduit. Forming this lip allows the sheetmetal to be welded from behind, leaving the exterior nice and clean.
At this point the inner structure...
At this point the inner structure is complete and it is removed from the Caddy. But before doing so, the position of the wheel was transferred and marked on the frame.
Now that the sheetmetal has...
Now that the sheetmetal has been formed, there's no need for the inner braces of the skeleton, therefore they are removed. (The inner braces are strictly for shaping the sheetmetal to your likings.) With the braces removed, a piece of conduit is formed to create the wheel opening and welded in place at the markings made before removing the skirt.
The sheetmetal is cut and...
The sheetmetal is cut and trimmed along the wheel opening brace; the radius of the skin is then welded to the inner brace that was just formed.
There you have it, a skirt...
There you have it, a skirt made to one's liking ... the old-school way.