Until recent years, the established method to attain independent front suspension was to weld a front clip from another vehicle under your stock chassis, usually a Mustang II crossmember, GM subframe, or similar. However, some cars have chassis that don't allow a simple Mustang II installation, yet are too narrow for a GM subframe. Fatman Fabrications builds clips that allow a 2- to 4-inch drop and include premade mounts for bumpers, sheetmetal, and usually radiator core supports.
As well as common models, Fatman offers these clips for a huge variety of vehicles, including Plymouths, DeSotos, Packards, and Studebakers, and is constantly adding more to the range, so call and check to see whether they offer an off-the-shelf clip for your project. Even if they don't, they can fabricate one from supplied dimensions. (Check out www.fatmanfab.com for more information.) The advantages of installing a Mustang II-based IFS are many, including modern disc brakes, conventional coil or air springs, modern telescopic shock absorbers, a choice of bolt patterns, and rack-and-pinion steering, either manual or power assisted.
1 The Plymouth as delivered...
1 The Plymouth as delivered to Circle City Hot Rods (CCHR). This is the ideal condition in which you would want to start such a project, with the engine, trans, and steering removed, and all front sheetmetal disassembled.
While the subject of this article is a '34 Plymouth coupe, the installation technique applies to any similar vehicle, so don't pass this story by just because it features a Plymouth! Likewise, we'll not dwell too long on the actual suspension assembly, as that's pretty straightforward and is comprehensively covered in the instructions supplied, but rather concentrate on the adaptation of the new clip to the Plymouth's framerails.
It's necessary to remove the engine, transmission, and all front sheetmetal from any car receiving a front clip swap, then level the chassis side to side and front to rear. It's also vital to ensure the frame doesn't move throughout the procedure. Fatman's instructions recommend using a plumb bob to drop from the bumper mounts, the center of the kingpins, and the front body mounts to the floor, and mark these positions so they can be referred to later, ensuring the new clip is aligned. However, the Plymouth, and its replacement clip, use substantial radiator core support holes. The guys at Circle City Hot Rods, who installed this clip, elected to fabricate a temporary jig, welded to the chassis behind where it would be cut, to use these holes for alignment.
From there it was simply a matter of following the instructions, with measurements unique to each vehicle, to mark and remove the old clip and install the new. While cutting off the front of a perfectly "good" chassis may fill some with dread, the instructions are clear, the procedure is straightforward, and anyone with competent welding skills should be able to complete the swap in a weekend. Follow along as we show you how the boys at Circle City Hot Rods did it.
2 The first order of business...
2 The first order of business was to level the chassis side to side and front to rear, with the wheels clear of the floor. CCHR has a chassis table, but since this is the way most readers will perform a clip swap, elected to tackle the job in the same manner. Shims can be added between the chassis and jackstands to ensure it's perfectly level. Of utmost importance is that the frame doesn't move at all throughout the entire procedure.
3 While the instructions...
3 While the instructions supplied with the kit explain in great detail how to use plumb bobs from the chassis to the ground to record the positions of the front body mount, axle centerline, height from the floor, and other dimensions, the Plymouth chassis and replacement clip both have substantial radiator core supports. The CCHR team whipped up this temporary locating jog and welded it to the frame behind where it'll be cut.
4 With the body raised off...
4 With the body raised off the chassis slightly, it was possible to follow the instructions and measure 21 3/8 inches forward from the front cowl bolt hole. This is where the chassis will be cut. Obviously, this measurement is specific to the '34 Plymouth frame.
5 Once the old paint was...
5 Once the old paint was removed in this area and machinist's blue sprayed on the bare steel, Matt Proctor used a set square to scribe vertical lines where the cuts will be made, after scribing across the tops of the framerails.
6 With the front of the chassis...
6 With the front of the chassis supported, Proctor began to cut through the chassis 'rails using a thin cut-off wheel. The bolts connecting the temporary jig to the radiator core support holes were removed beforehand, as a precaution against the jig bending downward when the final cuts were made.
7 Using a floor jack and...
7 Using a floor jack and a couple of helpers, the stock frontend was lowered to the floor, leaving the jig in place.