7 I needed a method of attaching my bent and flared stainless lines to the chassis, and w
It should also be mentioned that Aeromotive offers a fuel pump speed controller. This is mainly required by EFI systems with an inline pump rather than an in-tank version, which can help prevent cavitation and vaporization caused by low pressure in the pre-pump plumbing, caused when the constantly re-circulating fuel becomes hot after running through the engine bay and back to the tank a few times. Given that 8 gallons of fuel will re-circulate every three minutes, you can see how heat can build up. Activated by a signal from the tachometer, the speed controller will reduce pump speed at lower rpm; ramping up to full speed at 2,500 rpm. However, unless the car will sit idling for hours, the controller is not required with a fuel cell system, which eliminates the pre-pump plumbing and associated low-pressure issues.
If you're a regular reader you'll already have seen the dropped trunk floor I fabricated to house the fuel cell and RideTech compressor and pump for the air suspension. The remainder of the installation involved drilling holes to route the braided fuel lines through the floor, fabricating a mount for the fuel filter on the righthand chassis rail, and mounting the regulator to the firewall. Actually, there was a little more to it than that, as I chose to run rigid stainless for both the feed and return lines rather than run braided hose front to rear. The hardest part of the install was figuring out the plumbing and the fittings needed, and I resorted to drawing the system out on a large sheet of cardboard to make sure I got it right. This may sound lame, but considering the number of fittings required to switch from braided to hard line, and in and out of the various components, it worked out the best way for me.
8 The double 1/2-inch Kugel clamps worked perfectly to attach the hard lines to the frame
I was also trying to figure out how to run the Aeromotive fuel log in a "full-flow" manner, but given its physical size and the location of my A/C compressor, it didn't work out, no matter how I tried. I even ordered special Fragola banjo fittings from Summit Racing in the hope they'd clear the compressor, but to no avail. I eventually resigned to run a semi-"dead head" system, whereby the fuel passes through the regulator to the fuel log, which is blanked off at the forward end, the return line to the tank running back from the regulator. By comparison, the "full-flow" system involves the fuel entering the front of the log, with the regulator actually attached to the rear of the log rather than the firewall, and with the return line again running from the regulator. Speaking to the guys at Aeromotive, though the full-flow system is what they usually recommend, I was assured the alternative was perfectly adequate for a street application. Let's face it, it's what we've all seen many, many times before on street cars with more power than my Chevy, and that's without a return line.
Once I got my head around the layout of the system-thanks to my cardboard diagram-and worked out the routing of the hoses and hard lines, the complete system was a breeze to fit and I really liked the simplicity of the pump-in-tank method. Not only does the fuel system look good, I know it'll handle whatever I throw at it in the future, and am excited that the project is one major step closer to completion.
The double 1/2-inch Kugel clamps worked perfectly to attach the hard lines to the fram
10 I mounted the Aeromotive fuel filter inside the lefthand chassis rail, fabricating a s
11 I removed the front clip again for easier access, which also made taking this picture
12 The mention of braided hose brings us to the joyous task of fitting hose ends. Wrappin
13 If you've ever fitted ends to braided hose you'll know the pain of stabbed and bleedin
14 With the fitting placed in the appropriately sized Koul Tool (which comprises two halv