The domino effect-or being snowballed-is something nobody wants to experience with a car ... that is, unless it's positively natured of course. When it comes to rusty metal, however, if there are any signs of cancer, best to catch it "all" and treat accordingly. In other words, get it before it continues consuming your car's sheetmetal, especially from beneath a fresh paintjob.
Just because a car needs a rocker (or both) replaced doesn't necessarily mean it's going to need new floors, too. Well, not always, but that was the case with this particular '47 Chevy Fleetline-as it turned out, the rockers were the "least" of the problems when it came to dealing with rusted-out sheetmetal. Structurally speaking, I honestly have no clue how the car held such nice gaps (with doors that opened and closed like butter, no less) with the lower body support system-floors-as unsupportive as they were.
As the brethren Jobe and Cain at Jimenez Brothers Customs were fashioning up a new raised rear floor configuration to allow sufficient clearance for the ShockWave four-link rearend, it started becoming more and more apparent that the hand-fabbed rear section would likely turn out to be the easiest of the sheetmetal work. The closer things got toward the front of the car, we realized that we'd have to replace the entire floorboards-right and left, front and rear! Good thing "they" were already in the mood for metalwork because if it had been entirely up to me, I might have started looking for another body!
Suffice it to say, this '47 will undoubtedly have one of the stoutest flooring foundations around when all's said and done-and we're just about done with the metalwork ... time to start thinking about playing around with House of Kolor's all new VOC-compliant Shimrin II line here before long!

Though suspicions were high...

Though suspicions were high beforehand, it really wasn't until Jimenez Brothers Customs began tackling the elevated rear floor section that it really became apparent how severe the rust was throughout the Fleetline's entire floor. After fully evaluating the situation, a call was placed to Chevs of the 40's and a set of new "fabricated" floorpans were ordered.

In order to access all of...

In order to access all of the subfloor braces and whatnot, it's much easier with body and frame separated. Using a hydraulic lift helped facilitate the split; the AutoTwirler rotisserie handled the support of the body with plenty of working room.

Replacing a floorpan in a...

Replacing a floorpan in a '42-48 Chevy passenger car involves more than just replacing the floorpan

-you've got to carefully dissect...

-you've got to carefully dissect the sheetmetal (or what remains) from the intricate sub-braces, some of which need to stay in their exact locations, as they are part of the body mounts!

Typically, the spot-welds...

Typically, the spot-welds affixing the floors to the braces are fairly visible-if not, you'll know which, if any, you missed in the removal process when you attempt to pull the floor out ... and it doesn't want to come. Here you can see where we marked the mid brace from atop.

As was the case during our...

As was the case during our session with the rockers last month, HTP's Spot Weld Cutter made quick work of removing the weld joints.

Like when dealing with factory...

Like when dealing with factory rivet removal, using a specialized tool as such is important, not only for the time-saving benefits, but also because of the ending results, which aren't always possible with general tools-a big drill bit will work, and it will leave a big ol' hole, too.

Once the spot welds have all...

Once the spot welds have all been properly tended to, it's time for some serious cuttin'. For the more "delicate" areas (i.e. the severely rusted portions along the doorjamb), a cut-off wheel was used...

...while the HTP plasma sliced...

...while the HTP plasma sliced through the cleaner, longer stretches of metal. Regardless of what method of cutting is used, make absolutely certain you constantly check for any "underlying" issues-subfloor braces-as you go. Don't cut what needs to remain intact!