Custom Exhaust Systems - Exhausted

...but once the intermediate steering components are mocked in place, it's a different story altogether. Make absolutely sure you consider "all" possible variables along the way, as this will help eliminate any future modifications to your fancy new exhaust.

Laying out your system first will not only help better visualize and plan the exhaust, it will tell you whether or not you ordered enough material in the first place! (When initially measuring, over-estimate the amount of straight pipe, and if possible, add a couple bends to the list, just for insurance.)

Patriot offers U- and J-bends in both mild steel and stainless (16 and 18 gauge) from 1 1/4-inch all the way up to 4-inch diameter, each style available with a 6- or 12-inch radius. Those flanges, however, weren't quite as easy to come by-they're "deadstock" 1 3/4-inch EMPI two-bolt collectors. (Bugpack also makes them, but finding the larger diameter ones can be tough ... at least that was the case with me.)

While a band saw will make your cutting chores less of just that-a chore-you can get away with other means, such as a cut-off wheel or even a reciprocating saw if you had to. If you're going to butt-weld your exhaust, it helps to have straight, even cuts.

When mocking up sections prior to welding (off the vehicle), once you think you've got a fit, mark both pieces while in place with a marker for reference. Another trick is to take a hose clamp, trim out portions of the side (usually around the adjuster slits), and after using it to clamp the two pieces together, throw a couple tack welds through the cuts.

The exhaust will start out from the initial collector stub with a 2-inch diameter J-bend-gradually, the tubing will reduce to 1 3/4 inch and terminate at the rear with short 1 1/2-inch stainless (wedged to slip over and clamp to the mild steel tubing, and polished to resemble "slip-on" tips). The idea is restrict the exhaust just enough to get a nice "rap", but not so much as to impede engine performance.