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Fatman Fabrications Front Chassis Clips - Packaging SolutionsWheeler's Speed Shop Wields A Metaphorical Shoehorn From the October, 2010 issue of Rod & Custom By Kev Elliot
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We seem to have shown a number of Fatman Fabrications front chassis clips being installed on various makes and models of cars in recent years. When we received a call from Bryan Wheeler at Wheeler's Speed Shop in Huntington Beach, California, saying they were about to start a similar job on a Merc woodie, we weren't sure our readership needed to see another complete install. However, this is an immaculate car-in fact it had not long been the finished subject of a frame-off build at Wheeler's Speed Shop-but the owner wasn't happy with its antique handling once it was complete, despite his insistence that it retain the stock suspension and steering, so it was returned to the shop for a Fatman IFS, disc brake, and rack-and-pinion conversion. But it didn't end there, as the new blown Flathead also came out to be replaced with an Ardun Enterprises engine, as well as a 700-R4 overdrive transmission, ABS electric power brake booster, and a Flaming River steering column, all to be installed while retaining the period almost-stock look of the car. Suddenly this became way more than a Fatman clip install, and we thought it'd be neat to show how a pro shop overcomes all the small obstacles involved in such a major build, and believe us, there were more than a few! Many of the tips and tricks are relevant to similar projects underway in home garages around the world. In this issue we'll concentrate on the chassis work, engine and trans install, shifter linkage fabrication, steering column modifications, and inner fender clearance issues, with more to follow next month. You may not be building a Merc woodie, or even installing a Fatman clip, but we're certain you'll find plenty of useful information if you're a hands-on builder. We know we picked up a few tips.  Here's our subject, with the...  Here's our subject, with the old engine and trans removed, and the front sheetmetal unbolted as a single piece, as can be seen in the background. Note the heavy blankets used to protect the paint and glass.  If you've read the text first,...  If you've read the text first, you'll know that this was already a very nice woodie, and it's hard to beat a blown Flathead for looks. We figure if you're going to replace one, an Ardun is a pretty cool alternative! Yes, this is the engine that came out!  There are a couple of things...  There are a couple of things worth noting here. First, Andy Humenik is tack-welding a bolt-in brace between the chassis 'rails aft of where the front will be removed to ensure the width remains the same. Secondly, note the brace that bolts to the chassis (arrow) and is welded to a bar that runs underneath the arms of the rack (and has locating tabs so said arms cannot move). This will prevent the woodie from tipping backward on the rack once the engine, bodywork, and chassis clip are removed from the front.  While we'll not get in-depth...  While we'll not get in-depth on the clip install, and the Fatman instructions are comprehensive, it's worth noting that measurements are critical. With the woodie leveled side-to-side and front-to-rear, measurements were taken from set reference points (the bumper mounts here) and their locations marked on the shop floor. While a square was used to take the measurements, a plumb bob was used to ensure vertical location accuracy. Clear tape was placed on the floor and the marks made on the tape.  The point of no return! Though...  The point of no return! Though it's a two-man job to steady the old clip while the cuts are made, and to lower it to the floor, the old frontend can be rolled away on a floor jack.  You'll see a few hammer marks...  You'll see a few hammer marks on the red dye, as the old 'rails required a little heavy hammer and dolly work to square them up to perfectly match the new clip. A flat plate and a small section of angle iron clamped to the old r'ails allow the clip to rest in place easily while it's eyeballed against the old frame. The floor jack supports the front.  With the fresh powdercoating...  With the fresh powdercoating ground away in the area of the chassis 'rails where the cuts will be made for removal, as dictated in the instructions, red dye was sprayed on the bare metal before the cut lines were scribed. A level ensured the cuts would be vertical.  Though a cut-off wheel would...  Though a cut-off wheel would be perfectly acceptable, Humenik chose to use a Sawzall to make light work of the cutting. Note the use of a new blade, as well as a length of angle iron clamped to the inside of the 'rail as a cutting guide.  Fatman Fabrications supplies...  Fatman Fabrications supplies triangular sections that are intended to be welded to the underside of the frame stubs, smoothing the transition between the height of the old versus the new. Wheeler's Speed Shop cuts off the bottom off the new frame stubs before welding on these sections, ensuring the opening is the full height of the 'rail.  As the openings in the ends...  As the openings in the ends of the new 'rails are the same as the old, larger strengthening plates can be employed to spread the load at the joint. These will be plug-welded using the 3/4-inch holes that have been drilled in the sides of both new and old 'rails.  Looking into the transmission...  Looking into the transmission tunnel from the engine compartment, it was pretty obvious that the huge original trans mount crossmember was going to be in the way, but it wasn't removed until fitment of the new engine/trans combo was attempted, just to be sure.  An empty trans case and dummy...  An empty trans case and dummy Flathead block and Ardun heads were used for set up, though this is the trans case that will be built up for the Merc. A Wilcap adapter was used to mate the old-school engine to the modern overdrive trans. Note also that in order to clear the top of the doghouse, the surplus-to-requirements mounting lugs (arrows) at the top of the bellhousing were removed. These areas will be dressed before the trans goes for rebuilding.  The stock crossmember was...  The stock crossmember was indeed in the way, so it was removed. A new trans mount was fabricated from 1/4-inch steel plate, and now bolts to the X-member.  A Kugel Komponents stainless...  A Kugel Komponents stainless steel trans shift arm connection kit makes light work of hooking up a column or floor shifter to most GM transmissions. The splined shaft for the shift arm allows for accurate gear indicator alignment.  The finished driver side mount,...  The finished driver side mount, ready to be final welded. The wraparound gussets were fabricated in two pieces, and will be welded at the joint in the center of the narrow section nearest to the water pump inlet. Note the edges of the gussets have been radiused and they've been sandblasted to remove the hard coating that often comes on steel plate.  With the rear of the trans...  With the rear of the trans mounted as high and as far back as possible without altering the floor or trans tunnel, the pinion angle and the trans tailshaft angles could be matched. This therefore dictated where the front engine mounts would go. With stock-style "biscuit" mounts bolted to the water pumps, card templates were made and then transferred to 3/16-inch steel plate and tacked in place.  With the cross shaft in situ...  With the cross shaft in situ you can see how the Kugel clamp at the trans end still clamps to the splined fitting at the shift arm, but the slotted bracket has been moved across to line up with the shifter linkage from the lower end of the steering column. The gap (arrow) where the shaft turns on a neoprene bearing at the pivot provides enough space to remove the shaft from the shift arm fitting if required.  Connecting the column to the...  Connecting the column to the Mustang II rack-and-pinion is a 3/4-inch Double-D shaft between two Flaming River U-joints. Note how close the shaft passes to the Ardun head. This is a wide motor!  Inside the Merc, the stock...  Inside the Merc, the stock firewall plate was modified to mount the lower end of the column by welding on this tube. A setscrew will locate the column (arrow).  Of course the Kugel kit couldn't...  Of course the Kugel kit couldn't be used stock, as with such tight clearances around those huge Ardun heads, there was no direct route from the bottom of the steering column to the shift arm location on the side of the trans. The solution? This neat cross shaft that incorporates parts of the Kugel kit but that was mainly fabricated on the lathe at Wheeler's Speed Shop.  The lower end of the Flaming...  The lower end of the Flaming River column allows for this arm to be "clocked" so that it will mount in just the right position for the stainless Kugel rod to shift gears correctly.  We weren't there when they...  We weren't there when they did it, but Wheeler's modified the top of the Flaming River column to accept the stock Merc steering wheel. As it involved a lathe and specialty tools to disassemble the column innards, it's probably not a job to tackle at home anyhow.  As with every step of this...  As with every step of this build, modifying the inner fenders to fit around the new upper suspension arms involved cutting into freshly painted parts.  One major area of parts interference...  One major area of parts interference involved the Fatman crossmember and the deep finned aluminum oil pan from Ardun Enterprises. The owner definitely wanted to use this pan, which meant modifications to both it and the crossmember. Much planning went into how best to achieve this, resulting in the decision to drop the crossmember enough to give sufficient oil pan clearance below the crankshaft and con-rods, but to also raise the front section of the sump and move the "step" rearward at the same time. We'll look at this in more depth next month.  With a cardboard pattern made...  With a cardboard pattern made to ensure everything would clear, it could then be used as a template from which to construct the new dropped center for the crossmember from 3/16-inch steel. The curves in the flat sections were formed in a press, using round bar stock, moving it in increments to create the desired shape.  The complex shapes meant the...  The complex shapes meant the result of modifying these panels belies the time invested in them. Here Humenik is working out how best to reuse some of the parts he previously cut out, in new positions.  A simple jig was constructed...  A simple jig was constructed to ensure the lower suspension arm pivots didn't move once the center of the crossmember was cut away and then the new section replaced the old. This car is not lowered, so dropping the crossmember like this will not affect the scrubline or ground clearance. A magnetic level was used to ensure the steering rack mounts were level before welding them in place.  With everything tacked in...  With everything tacked in place and all the chassis fabrication finished, the whole frontend would come apart for final welding, paint, and powdercoating.  The finished driver side inner...  The finished driver side inner fender, ready for paint after a little more grinding on the TIG welds. Note how a return lip has been added for strength around the new cutout.
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