Simplicity. No matter where you look, it's part of our everyday lives. From the way we communicate with one another to the manner in which we upgrade antiquated automobiles to better coexist with modern mobiles, simplicity is everywhere. And while this straightforward way of doing things can oftentimes take the fun out of life, when it comes to updating the mechanical aspects of an old car, the easier it is on you, the quicker you can get your car on the road-and put the fun back in your life.
Personally, I don't mind cutting, welding, and even fabricating, especially when someone else is doing it for me (operating a digital camera to document the process can be quite strenuous on the index finger you know). But ultimately, I have zero patience, so the faster I can accomplish whatever it takes to drive whatever it is I'm working on, the better. That's precisely how I ended up going "bolt-in" when it came to retrofitting my '47 Chevy chassis with modern componentry. Above and beyond the entry-level skill factor, I also had to consider the original design of the '37-48 Chevy frames-their two-piece (top hat) style construction doesn't lend itself to being welded on too well. The top of the hat's a bit on the thin side, but the lower plate it's riveted to-the brim of the hat, as it were-is plenty beefy, making it ideal to bolt new crossmembers onto without worry of structural failure.
No offense to the restoration...
No offense to the restoration buffs out there, but this Chevy's OE suspension, brakes, and steering were about as desirable as the rust that had taken a severe toll on the body. And as with the corroded sheetmetal-not to mention that 216 with a connecting rod hanging out the block-these parts have to go.
Kimbridge Enterprises in Snohomish, Washington, manufactures pretty much everything you need in the way of bolt-in parts and accessories for '37-57 Chevy passenger cars and '47-55 pickup frames (as well as '47-55 complete chassis). For those who may not be familiar with the name, but recognize the product, Kimbridge has been manufacturing these parts for years, so they're no newcomer to the frame components game. You can rest assured that every single part listed in their catalog has long ago been thoroughly tested for both fit and function.
For the Fleetline's chassis, I went with Kimbridge's bolt-in IFS kit, adjustable bolt-in K-member, bolt-in brake pedal/master cylinder kit (with mini booster), and bolt-in engine mounts, which I ended up welding in later on. Probably the most labor-intensive aspect wound up being the removal of the stock K-member-or to be more precise, popping out all those stubborn factory rivets holding it in place. Otherwise, the stock frontend simply unbolted as a complete unit (and was easily rolled out from under the frame with the wheels still on) and the brake pedal bracket went in with nary an issue. Ultimately, I wound up swapping the Mustang II lower control arms and strut rods for a set of RideTech tubular lowers, which required welding a gusseted tube to the crossmember. My goal was to use ShockWaves front and rear-it's a chore trying to outfit the stock Mustang II lower with a basic airbag mount alone, not to mention working around the strut rod in attempt to find a suitable location for a shock absorber. But despite my after-the-fact modifications, my frontend remains a bolt-in unit, just as it was intended.
The stock suspension did have...
The stock suspension did have one positive attribute-it unbolts as a complete unit, making it a breeze to remove. After a good soaking with some strong penetrating lube the frontend can literally be rolled out from under the chassis (supported on jackstands) once all the fastening hardware and brake lines have been removed and steering disconnected.
Like the front suspension,...
Like the front suspension, the factory K-member can be removed in one piece, but requires more effort, as it's riveted to the frame. Prior to attacking the little metal mushrooms, the brake pedal return spring bracket is cut off with a reciprocating saw.
Now the tedious rivet removal...
Now the tedious rivet removal session can begin. There are various ways in which to do this-I usually go about it with a three-part process, which starts with grinding the tops of the rivets flush with the lip of the framerail.
Obviously, any major chassis...
Obviously, any major chassis work is better accomplished with as much of the car removed from the foundation as possible-if it's possible to begin with. But if that's not feasible, plan on spending twice as much labor time, namely with the K-member swap and brake kit (a bolt-in IFS shouldn't require more than the removal of the front sheetmetal clip).
We've more than covered our...
We've more than covered our Mustang II install quota in recent months, so we'll spare further repetitiveness. However, the stock frontend was removed and the Kimbridge three-piece crossmember kit was bolted up in order to keep the framerails square for the K-member installation.
Next, the remaining shank...
Next, the remaining shank is hole-punched and drilled about halfway through with a bit roughly three-quarters its size.
Speaking of new parts, here's...
Speaking of new parts, here's what will replace the old unit: Kimbridge Enterprises' '41-48 Chevy bolt-in, adjustable K-member kit. This particular one is designed for Turbo 350 transmission applications-they also offer a kit for TH400/700-R4s.
The triangulated bars bolted...
The triangulated bars bolted up with no problem at all. Now, not only is there less mass with the old, bulky crossmember out of the equation the Gearstar Level 2 TH350 automatic has a suitable place to sit. At this point, the motor mounts had been welded on so that I could trial fit the trans with a bare block attached. Fits like a glove.