After removal from storage,...
After removal from storage, we found the bed to have multiple layers of filler, primer, and paint. Due to the irregular surface shape and the thickness of the coating, we elected to take the entire bed to Precision Products in Hopkinsville, KY, for media blasting.
There are hot rods, and then there are purpose-built hot rods. A Model A roadster pickup is the perfect example of a utilitarian hot rod-you can enjoy it in a leisurely manner, or you can use it to haul things to and fro.
Seeing as we're almost in the year 2011, there aren't as many pristine antique Fords lying around as there used to be. You either buy a restored or hot-rodded one, or take the plunge and dive head first into a restoration project of your own. Fortunately, you won't have to go it alone if you choose the latter option, especially when it comes to replacing the bed wood.
Recently, Bed Wood and Parts in Hopkinsville, Kentucky, undertook the painstaking process of restoring a Model A pickup bed for us to document, and subsequently, illustrate for any of you who may be looking to do the same. If for some reason, however, you have a bed box that is beyond repair, don't despair-there are complete aftermarket beds available, such as those from Brookville Roadster. As for the wood, Bed Wood and Parts has you covered from head to tailgate-from rare, exotic woods to your basic oak. They not only have that, but everything else you'll need to create your show-quality bed floor or one suitable for those weekend Home Depot runs.
Our bed was in good shape,...
Our bed was in good shape, however the bedsides had numerous dents from years of use and storage. Almost every surface of our bed had these type of dents once the paint was removed.
The bed is now clean of all...
The bed is now clean of all fillers and finishes and is ready for basic metalworking. Have your abrasive blaster blow as much of the abrasive grit from the finished product as possible. Even though we have some work ahead, the metal quality and thickness of this original bed is superior to most reproductions.
No exotic tools were used...
No exotic tools were used in the restoration of this bed. A couple of basic body hammers, assorted dollies, and an inexpensive stud gun were all that was required.
No exotic tools were used...
No exotic tools were used in the restoration of this bed. A couple of basic body hammers, assorted dollies, and an inexpensive stud gun were all that was required.
Although our bed had very...
Although our bed had very little in the way of rust through, there are places that have minor pitting, which are easily sealed and later filled. The black marks are visual marks that are placed on the metal where high spots are located. These high spots are very difficult to see on the sandblasted surface but can be felt with ease. Marking them ensures that they are not missed.
Luckily, most of the dents...
Luckily, most of the dents were located in single wall areas of the bed where a hammer and dolly could remove them. On the edge of the bedside this was simply not possible. We utilized a stud gun to pull these dents.
The lower bed flange had seen...
The lower bed flange had seen many years of abuse. Although the metal is distorted, the panel is very solid and rust free.
After about 20 minutes with...
After about 20 minutes with a hammer, dolly, and straight edge the lower flange is straight. This is important as this flange will be in direct contact with our new wood floor.
After some hammer and dolly...
After some hammer and dolly work, the dents are removed from the bedsides and the panel is now smooth enough for sealer and final bodywork.
Here we are removing dents...
Here we are removing dents from the upper bedside surface. Dents are first lifted from the lower side with the pick side of the hammer and then leveled with the flat side against the dolly. Extra time spent here will pay big dividends when you get to the body filler stage of your restoration.
It is very important that...
It is very important that any remaining abrasive be removed with high-pressure air. Prior to application of the sealer, the entire surface is prepped with a wax and grease remover, such as PPG DX330.
A two-component, direct-to-metal...
A two-component, direct-to-metal (DTM) primer surfacer is applied to seal the surface and provide a solid foundation for future work. It is very important to ensure your product is designed for DTM application. Also, many epoxy products have a limited open time before they must be top-coated or re-sanded, so keep this in mind if your project may sit idle for a period of time. When in doubt, consult your paint supplier.
Dents in the front bed panel...
Dents in the front bed panel are removed by lifting them from the back side with the pick side of the hammer where needed and smoothed with the flat side of the hammer.
After the basic metalworking...
After the basic metalworking is complete, we need to put the bed in sealer to protect against surface rust from humidity and handling.
Now that the sheetmetal portion...
Now that the sheetmetal portion is finished, it's time to cut some curly, wormy maple bed wood for test-fitting into the bed.
It is very important at this...
It is very important at this stage to test-fit all of your wood to the bed. Any holes that are required to go through the wood surface should be drilled at this time. This allows for the holes to be sealed during the wood finishing process to ensure no moisture gets to the wood after installation.
Test-fit of the wood is complete....
Test-fit of the wood is complete. We ensured that all the gaps are correct and the strip mounting holes are accessible. The next time this wood is installed in the bed it will have a show-quality clear finish.
Test-fitting of the wood....
Test-fitting of the wood. Here you can see the importance of getting the lower flange straight during the bodywork phase.