Lokar's Universal E-Brake Cables - Easy Hook-Up

The Lokar e-brake cables are simple to install. With the inner cable removed, the end of the outer cable passes through the brake backing plate.

It's not necessary to strip the brake shoes, adjusters, and springs from the backing plate to install the cables (at least not with a Ford axle, I can't vouch for other applications). There's sufficient access to get to the lock nut with a wrench.

I was going to remove the lower spring mounts on the CPP trailing arms as I don't need them for my application, but they proved ideal to mount the outer cable on the passenger side. This prevents the cable rubbing on the chassis when the suspension's fully dropped, as shown here. Air suspension certainly creates a challenge when fitting other components!

The driver side cable, however, proved more difficult to route. I could have passed it under the driveshaft, but that seemed like a clumsy solution. It was just long enough to route up and over the third-member pinion with line clamps securing it to the bodywork behind the lower rear seat and then route it along the passenger side trailing arm with the other cable. Care was taken to ensure it didn't come into contact with any moving parts throughout the suspension travel.

CPP supplied the trailing arms with e-brake cable brackets. I used a rotary file to enlarge the hole so both cables could pass through.

I'll wrap the cables with a 3-inch length of rubber hose to prevent chaffing, yet still allow slight movement through the bracket to allow for suspension travel.

Both cables then pass through the crossmember adjacent to the passenger side trailing arm forward mount. I will fit grommets here in due course.

Once the cable adjuster bracket is installed, and the cables are routed safely and securely, they can be cut to length. Here the passenger side cable is marked for cutting (arrow). The driver side was the correct length as supplied.

With the inner cables pushed through, and the adjuster block set to about three-quarters of the way in, as per the instructions, they can be fed through the junction block and pulled to tension them before the setscrews are tightened. Note how the driver side cable is only just long enough, while the passenger side cable can now be cut to length.

The cable adjusters can now be tightened, not forgetting to use antiseize lubricant on the aluminum threads.

Once the outer cables are secured, the inners can be fed through them. The spring was installed over the cable, which was then fed through from the backplate. Though difficult to see here, the brakes don't have to be stripped down, but it's fiddly getting the cable end hooked up. The nipple on the end of the cable locates in the corresponding slot on the E-brake mechanism inside the brake drum. Using pliers to compress the spring, the nipple can be hooked over the mechanism using a screwdriver.

Four clicks up the ratchet and the emergency brake lever is operating perfectly, with both rear wheels locked up.