One of the biggest expenses incurred when building a traditional rod or custom, excluding paint, has to be stepping up to pay for chrome plating. There's no getting away from the fact that items like bumpers, grilles, and trim have to be chromed for that period look, though some items are available from the aftermarket already plated, such as bumpers.
One group of parts that always look good and period correct when dipped in the chrome vat are interior window frames. However, metal-finishing them after they're cut down to fit a roof that's been chopped is a time-consuming task. Completely disproportionate to the final appearance, they contribute a small part of the overall "look" that is only appreciated by those who have performed a similar operation. There's an easier way though, as we discovered when we talked to Spectra Chrome.
I chopped the rear driver...
I chopped the rear driver side window frame some 10 years ago when I chopped the roof on the Chevy, but never got around to the other frames. These hold the interior window weatherstripping in place, and so are more than just cosmetic.
This is an electro-plating process as with traditional chroming, yet not strictly a painting process either. We were blown away when we witnessed the application firsthand, actually standing in the spray booth at Creations N' Chrome and watching as proprietor Gary Watson took the rear side window frames for our project '49 Chevy from gray primer to chrome-like appearance over the course of a day.
The advantage of the Spectra Chrome process is that up until the actual application of the final coats, the preparation of the parts is identical to any regular paintjob. The process can be applied over body filler, so long as a catalyzed primer is used. With this sanded to an 800-grit finish, just as you would for any basecoat/clearcoat application, a specially formulated white basecoat is applied, then baked on for two hours. This provides a high-gloss reactive surface to which the metal spray bonds, though it can absolutely not be touched once applied.
Once again relief cuts were...
Once again relief cuts were made and the section bent and screwed in place. Apart from the initial hole, new holes had to be drilled in the perimeter frame for the mounting screws. This section had been damaged at some point, hence the poor fit along the lower section. This was repaired before final welding.
The metal spray process that follows consists of two water-based solutions sprayed simultaneously, using a dual-nozzle gun. These solutions mix and react as they exit the gun's nozzles, creating a fine mist of real silver that deposits over the basecoated surface. This is followed after another couple hours of drying time followed by a clearcoat. Transparent colors, such as candies, can be added to the clearcoat, though we opted for the straight chrome finish.
While much more environmentally friendly than conventional chrome plating, the obvious advantages for the end user are that not only can the process be applied over body filler, but the part to be plated doesn't even have to be made of metal! While at Creations N' Chrome we saw plastic and even wooden items being coated. Spectra Chrome advertises that the process is perfect for pitted pot metal parts, such as trim pieces, badges, door handles, and hood ornaments from '50s and '60s cars-and indeed it is, especially as these parts invariably can't be rechromed, but the possibilities are almost endless. How about molding your own grille from fiberglass and then having it chromed?
We were impressed with our finished window frames, though of course we had to cut them down and prep them before Creations N' Chrome could work their magic. Here's how they went from rusty stock parts to chromed masterpieces.
With new glass cut to size,...
With new glass cut to size, I cut down the old rubbers, though I have new ones to which I'll repeat the process when it comes time to finally assemble the '49.
Cut down, and with relief...
Cut down, and with relief cuts made at the corner to enable me to bend it to suit the angled B-pillars, this first section was screwed in place.
With the stock window frame...
With the stock window frame sand-blasted and held in place against the window rubber, I marked where it would be cut to form the lower front corner or the chopped version.
The lower rear corner was...
The lower rear corner was next to be tackled, again held in place and marked for cutting.
Repeating the process, you...
Repeating the process, you can see how more relief cuts were required to achieve the correct B-pillar angle.
With the final shape formed,...
With the final shape formed, the window frame was tack-welded and trial fit prior to final welding.
Some work was required to...
Some work was required to align the edges, as the frames are tapered along all sides, and removing sections resulted in misalignment. A cold chisel was used to work the metal until the edges lined up.
Once final welding was completed,...
Once final welding was completed, a half-round file was used to dress the welds.
Again, 80-grit sandpaper,...
Again, 80-grit sandpaper, this time on a block, was used to sand the filler. The rounded corners were sanded by wrapping the paper around an old radiator hose.
The frames were finished with...
The frames were finished with 220-grit paper prior to priming.
Finished and with the welds...
Finished and with the welds dressed, the frame was screwed in place to check its fitment before moving onto the body filler stage.
Though I'd sandblasted the...
Though I'd sandblasted the frames, to provide a good key for the body filler I sanded them with 80-grit paper.
The basecoat for the Spectra...
The basecoat for the Spectra Chrome process requires a catalyzed primer, so I used two-stage urethane primer from Summit Racing to coat the frames. As their return edges will show once fitted in the car, I supported them off the workbench to allow access from underneath.
A flat file was used on all...
A flat file was used on all the return edges, which are visible on the finished frame, and hold the upholstery in place. Note the long weld that has been ground down. This was required where I split and widened one section of the lower frame in order to align the edges at one point.
I used a countersink tool...
I used a countersink tool in a hand drill to provide uniform recesses for the mounting screws in the areas where filler surrounded the original holes.