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Spectra Chrome Window Frames - Chrome Sweet Chrome ... Or Not, As We'll Show You!From the May, 2011 issue of Rod & Custom By Kev Elliot
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One of the biggest expenses incurred when building a traditional rod or custom, excluding paint, has to be stepping up to pay for chrome plating. There's no getting away from the fact that items like bumpers, grilles, and trim have to be chromed for that period look, though some items are available from the aftermarket already plated, such as bumpers. One group of parts that always look good and period correct when dipped in the chrome vat are interior window frames. However, metal-finishing them after they're cut down to fit a roof that's been chopped is a time-consuming task. Completely disproportionate to the final appearance, they contribute a small part of the overall "look" that is only appreciated by those who have performed a similar operation. There's an easier way though, as we discovered when we talked to Spectra Chrome. I chopped the rear driver... I chopped the rear driver side window frame some 10 years ago when I chopped the roof on the Chevy, but never got around to the other frames. These hold the interior window weatherstripping in place, and so are more than just cosmetic. This is an electro-plating process as with traditional chroming, yet not strictly a painting process either. We were blown away when we witnessed the application firsthand, actually standing in the spray booth at Creations N' Chrome and watching as proprietor Gary Watson took the rear side window frames for our project '49 Chevy from gray primer to chrome-like appearance over the course of a day. The advantage of the Spectra Chrome process is that up until the actual application of the final coats, the preparation of the parts is identical to any regular paintjob. The process can be applied over body filler, so long as a catalyzed primer is used. With this sanded to an 800-grit finish, just as you would for any basecoat/clearcoat application, a specially formulated white basecoat is applied, then baked on for two hours. This provides a high-gloss reactive surface to which the metal spray bonds, though it can absolutely not be touched once applied. Once again relief cuts were... Once again relief cuts were made and the section bent and screwed in place. Apart from the initial hole, new holes had to be drilled in the perimeter frame for the mounting screws. This section had been damaged at some point, hence the poor fit along the lower section. This was repaired before final welding. The metal spray process that follows consists of two water-based solutions sprayed simultaneously, using a dual-nozzle gun. These solutions mix and react as they exit the gun's nozzles, creating a fine mist of real silver that deposits over the basecoated surface. This is followed after another couple hours of drying time followed by a clearcoat. Transparent colors, such as candies, can be added to the clearcoat, though we opted for the straight chrome finish. While much more environmentally friendly than conventional chrome plating, the obvious advantages for the end user are that not only can the process be applied over body filler, but the part to be plated doesn't even have to be made of metal! While at Creations N' Chrome we saw plastic and even wooden items being coated. Spectra Chrome advertises that the process is perfect for pitted pot metal parts, such as trim pieces, badges, door handles, and hood ornaments from '50s and '60s cars-and indeed it is, especially as these parts invariably can't be rechromed, but the possibilities are almost endless. How about molding your own grille from fiberglass and then having it chromed? We were impressed with our finished window frames, though of course we had to cut them down and prep them before Creations N' Chrome could work their magic. Here's how they went from rusty stock parts to chromed masterpieces.  With new glass cut to size,...  With new glass cut to size, I cut down the old rubbers, though I have new ones to which I'll repeat the process when it comes time to finally assemble the '49.  Cut down, and with relief...  Cut down, and with relief cuts made at the corner to enable me to bend it to suit the angled B-pillars, this first section was screwed in place.  With the stock window frame...  With the stock window frame sand-blasted and held in place against the window rubber, I marked where it would be cut to form the lower front corner or the chopped version.  The lower rear corner was...  The lower rear corner was next to be tackled, again held in place and marked for cutting.  Repeating the process, you...  Repeating the process, you can see how more relief cuts were required to achieve the correct B-pillar angle.  With the final shape formed,...  With the final shape formed, the window frame was tack-welded and trial fit prior to final welding.  Some work was required to...  Some work was required to align the edges, as the frames are tapered along all sides, and removing sections resulted in misalignment. A cold chisel was used to work the metal until the edges lined up.  Once final welding was completed,...  Once final welding was completed, a half-round file was used to dress the welds.  Again, 80-grit sandpaper,...  Again, 80-grit sandpaper, this time on a block, was used to sand the filler. The rounded corners were sanded by wrapping the paper around an old radiator hose.  The frames were finished with...  The frames were finished with 220-grit paper prior to priming.  Finished and with the welds...  Finished and with the welds dressed, the frame was screwed in place to check its fitment before moving onto the body filler stage.  Though I'd sandblasted the...  Though I'd sandblasted the frames, to provide a good key for the body filler I sanded them with 80-grit paper.  The basecoat for the Spectra...  The basecoat for the Spectra Chrome process requires a catalyzed primer, so I used two-stage urethane primer from Summit Racing to coat the frames. As their return edges will show once fitted in the car, I supported them off the workbench to allow access from underneath.  A flat file was used on all...  A flat file was used on all the return edges, which are visible on the finished frame, and hold the upholstery in place. Note the long weld that has been ground down. This was required where I split and widened one section of the lower frame in order to align the edges at one point.  I used a countersink tool...  I used a countersink tool in a hand drill to provide uniform recesses for the mounting screws in the areas where filler surrounded the original holes.  Body filler was then applied...  Body filler was then applied over the welded areas, plus in a few small dents.  Following a guidecoat, the...  Following a guidecoat, the frames were wet-sanded first with 400-grit, then 800-grit, paying particular attention to not breaking through the primer anywhere, as per my instructions from Gary Watson at Creations N' Chrome. This is particularly important if the Spectra Chrome basecoat is to adhere properly. Of course you can leave all this prepwork to them!  Five heavy coats of primer...  Five heavy coats of primer using a Harbor Freight gravity feed touch-up gun were then applied. Remember when using any two-stage paint, even primer, that overspray will adhere to anything in the vicinity, so mask everything you don't want painted, and use appropriate safety and breathing equipment.  While their chrome process...  While their chrome process is applied in a conventional spray booth, this rolling spray table basin is used inside the booth, as it incorporates the pressure tanks and spray guns, as well as a turntable on which the part to be coated is mounted. To the right are a couple of similar systems minus the spray table. Creations N' Chrome is not only a training facility for Spectra Chrome, but also the West Coast distributor for their products.  Watson sprayed the basecoat...  Watson sprayed the basecoat and then baked the frames while I went to lunch!  The third step was the most...  The third step was the most interesting, as it's where the component gun was used to apply the silver nitrate. First the surface turned brown, then blue then took on a chrome-like appearance before our eyes. It was truly amazing to someone used to applying regular paint, especially as each step appeared to be like spraying water onto the window frame!  Inside these small bottles...  Inside these small bottles are the magic potions that make it all happen. The basecoat on the left is the secret to the reflective quality of the end product; the green, white, and red labeled bottles contain the silvering solutions that are added to deionized water at specific mix ratios.  My window frames were supported...  My window frames were supported above the surface of a turntable using cut-down paint mixing sticks attached using a hot glue gun, blown clean, and thoroughly wiped with a tack cloth prior to the basecoat being applied.  As can be seen in image 21,...  As can be seen in image 21, there are four guns used in the process. First a sensitizer solution was sprayed onto the part to be coated, which acts as a wetting agent. This was then rinsed with deionized water.  The final step was to rinse...  The final step was to rinse again with deionized water, before the window frame was dried using compressed air.  A little blue/purple toner...  A little blue/purple toner was added to the initial clearcoat to give the chrome a realistic tinge, followed by actual clearcoat.  By adding different toners...  By adding different toners to the clearcoat, all sorts of effects can be achieved. Here's just a sample of some of the colors available using the chrome as a base.  Here's a perfect example of...  Here's a perfect example of precisely what Spectra Chrome is ideal for, as pot metal parts like this can't be chrome plated in the traditional manner, but they can be sand-blasted, filled, primed, and coated with Spectra Chrome.  Watson holds the driver side...  Watson holds the driver side frame, ready for the clearcoat to be applied.  Here's the finished passenger...  Here's the finished passenger side frame installed in the Chevy. At this point it can be treated like any regular painted part, and can be color-sanded and buffed if desired.  It doesn't show well on camera...  It doesn't show well on camera under fluorescent lights, but this Mustang has a pink/red candy over the chrome base, for a stunning effect.
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