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Project Purple Pig Power Window Installation - Glazed ExpressionThe Purple Pig Gets Power Peepers From the June, 2011 issue of Rod & Custom By Kev Elliot
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Project Purple Pig is rapidly approaching the body and paint stage, but there are still a fair number of jobs to be completed before we get there. It's always advisable to complete everything before a car's painted, as if you leave anything until afterward, you'll invariably have to modify something or run the risk of scratching paint. I like to have a car totally done, to the point of glass fitted and all holes drilled, even in places like the doorjambs, before I break out my trusty DeVilbiss gun. With the old door tops fitted... With the old door tops fitted to the replacement doors I could begin installing the power windows. With a stock car there's no problem, but if you've chopped yours, ensure the door and window frame fits before proceeding. A chopped top invariably means the new glass will run at a different angle than stock, as the top of the door will now be leaned further in if, as is typically the case, you didn't widen the roof. I replaced the rusted out doors on the '49 with a pair donated by Brad Masterson, and though the new ones were chopped, they didn't fit my car, so I swapped my door tops onto the replacements. With that done, and the doors checked for fitment, I set about adding electric door windows, using a kit from Specialty Power Windows. The cable-driven Wonder-Lift kit completely replaces the stock crank handle and regulator and was simple to install, though a little welding was required in my application, as the kit is designed to be universal. As my Chevy has been chopped for years now, and has seen plenty of miles, I had already chopped the vent window assembly and possessed door glass, which I knew fit the felt channels perfectly. The PWL-2C kit from Specialty... The PWL-2C kit from Specialty Power Windows includes lower glass channel, GM switches, wire harness with plugs, stainless door conduit (for wires), regulators, test wire harness, hardware, as well as a DVD and written instructions. Whether or not your car is chopped, this is the most important first step. If the glass doesn't fit correctly, and move up and down in the run channels (which must be parallel) with no measurable movement front to rear, it will not operate smoothly. The instructions that are supplied with the Specialty Power Windows kit explains how to check this, but make sure you have good or new felt channels installed. Adjust the channels accordingly, and if you don't have glass yet, make 1/4-inch-thick patterns from MDF, from which new glass can be copied. With the glass fitted, it was simply a case of following the instructions.  The old window mechanism and...  The old window mechanism and glass needs to be removed, which means removing the handles first. GM cars use a clip to secure the handles to the splined shaft, requiring a special tool, as shown, for removal (or a couple of thin screwdrivers!).  The clip fits in a groove...  The clip fits in a groove on the rear of the handle and can be fiddly to remove, especially with the upholstery panel in place.  The lower ends of the window...  The lower ends of the window channel that fits between the door glass and the vent window have these adjusters to enable the angle to be altered. As the glass will now be farther out at the bottom (because the top is further in owing to the chop) these needed replacing with longer versions.  Having already chopped the...  Having already chopped the vent window assemblies years ago, these were installed in the new doors along with their rubber seals. These will all be replaced with new versions before final assembly.  I made new adjusters using...  I made new adjusters using lengths of matching all-thread, and cut a slot in the end with a cutoff wheel.  The channel, with felt installed,...  The channel, with felt installed, was then lowered into the door and secured.  The adjuster mentioned in...  The adjuster mentioned in caption 7 was then set and secured in place using the lock-nut.  The Chevy door has a brace...  The Chevy door has a brace between the inner and outer doorskins, which would interfere with fitment of the new regulator, and required trimming. You can also see how the adjuster at the bottom of the channel works, plus the mount for the lower end of the channel at the rear of the door (arrow). This channel was modified to sit at the new, correct angle and still use this mount.  With a line drawn on the inner...  With a line drawn on the inner skin denoting the position of the brace, the glass (edges taped to prevent damage) was laid on the door in what would be its fully "down" position, and its lower edge position also marked on the metal.  Here's a look at the new components...  Here's a look at the new components laid in place on the inner doorskin. It can be seen that the brace and regulator want to occupy the same space inside the door. For clarity I laid masking tape along the line where the upper edge of the brace is positioned.  The regulator requires cutting...  The regulator requires cutting to length, and to correctly determine where the cut should be made, the kit contains this template. The end marked "BOTTOM" was placed in the upper glass felt run, the template marked where it crossed the edge of the doorskin, then marked again 3/8-inch lower to allow for regulator adjustment.  The template was laid on the...  The template was laid on the regulator-in the fully "down" position-and a square used to mark the cut line.  The same template was also...  The same template was also used to determine the positions for the upper and lower regulator mounting brackets. The mark that is 3 1/2 inches from the bottom of the template was laid on the line denoting the location of the bottom of the glass, with the template located in the center of the glass opening. The arrowed tape marks the position of the top of the regulator, now cut to length. The mounts should be as far apart as possible, yet align with the slots on the template.  With the regulator cut down,...  With the regulator cut down, the end cap was transferred from the scrap section, as well as the cage nut, which accepts a bolt through the upper mounting bracket. A screwdriver was used to pry the cage nut's "ears" through the slot.  With the mounting bracket...  With the mounting bracket locations transferred to the inner skin, a cutoff wheel was used to remove the sections.  Glass setting tape is provided,...  Glass setting tape is provided, and was used to install the sash channel, located centrally on the glass. Standing the glass upright, with a couple layers of thick cardboard underneath (carpet is preferred), a soft mallet was used to fit the channel. Go easy here!  The brace was also trimmed...  The brace was also trimmed as necessary to clear the regulator.  The instructions say to install...  The instructions say to install the regulator next, but as my door had a large access hole, I elected to make life easier and fit the lift bar before installation.  The slotted tube that bolts...  The slotted tube that bolts to the glass channel locates on these two shoulder pins, running on these spherical runners.  The glass channel was bolted...  The glass channel was bolted to the regulator assembly next.  With the runners inside the...  With the runners inside the round slotted tube, R-clips prevent the assembly from coming adrift, yet provide movement for the glass.  Now the mounting brackets...  Now the mounting brackets were bolted to the regulator. With all components slotted there's plenty of room for adjustment.  Using the test harness provided,...  Using the test harness provided, I used the Optima battery from the Chevy to check the window operation. With no binding, and smooth, silent operation, it worked beautifully.  With the window in the fully...  With the window in the fully closed position, the upper mounting bracket was tack welded in place, taking care to protect the glass. With it in the fully open position, the lower bracket was tacked.  I next cut out a small filler...  I next cut out a small filler piece of sheetmetal to attach the side of the lower bracket that was located in the door aperture. A final test of the window operation proved all was well.  Though the Specialty Power...  Though the Specialty Power Windows kit contains door conduit, I'd already drilled the driver door and A post for similar pieces from The Glass House, so I will use these on both doors.  One side done, one to go ...  One side done, one to go ...  The GM switches provided are...  The GM switches provided are perfectly adequate, but won't really suit the look of my car. I'll either mount them under the leading edge of the dash, or swap them out for smaller switches that I can hide in the undersides of my stock armrests. It should be noted these kits can be supplied with chrome, black, console, or armrest switches.
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