Two or three fisheyes usually...
Two or three fisheyes usually spoil a topcoat but they don’t have to. For such occasions, crafty painters like Dave keep tricks in their bags.
Whether you’re a novice painter or a seasoned pro, one thing is for certain: you’re going to get a fisheye now and then. Also known as craters, these tiny surface imperfections will occur anytime foreign contaminants find their way into your paintwork, despite all the best efforts.
Clean compressed air and conscientious work habits will go a long way toward the prevention of the problem, but still, you’ll likely be subject to the occasional fisheye. They oftentimes necessitate a costly redo, but our friend Dave, an accomplished restorer in Visalia, California, showed us this neat trick to fix ’em without starting over. We’ve used it to great success. Try it; it should work for you, too.
Preferably before our fisheyed...
Preferably before our fisheyed topcoats are completely cured, we’ll mix a small amount of the same urethane clear that we finished with. As many of you already know, mixing small amounts can be a challenge for elderly eyeballs. In this particular instance, darkening the measurements on our mixing cup will give us a much-needed visual advantage.
Once we’re satisfied that...
Once we’re satisfied that our mixture is accurate and our instruments are surgically clean, we’ll dip the prickly part of a pin into the catalyzed clear.
After the perfect globule...
After the perfect globule is gathered, we can ever-so-delicately touch the mixed material directly to the center of each crater.
Do not rush the transfer....
Do not rush the transfer. Be patient; let gravity work for you. Keeping the drops as small as possible will ensure that the next step goes easily.
With our three fisheyes filled,...
With our three fisheyes filled, it’s time to walk away for at least a day or two so our catalyzed clear can cure enough to withstand wet-sanding.
Considering the convex curvature...
Considering the convex curvature of this rumble lid, a fairly stiff block is a logical choice. I usually begin with 600-grit paper and then continue as I ordinarily would with 1,200 and so on. From here our color-sanding, buffing, and polishing procedures will be the same as they’d be if there had not been a fisheye problem in the first place.
Well there you have it, polished...
Well there you have it, polished proof that sometimes cheatin’ can’t be beaten. Granted, this may not work for everyone every time, but it’s worked for Dave, it’s worked for us, and it just might work for you too. When your only other option is to redo a much larger job, what do you have to lose?