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 [10] Again, the rear panel...  [10] Again, the rear panel was clamped in place, this time marked for trimming.  [11] As this panel had to...  [11] As this panel had to fit in more than one plane, and the sides of the car sprung out a little when the old panel was removed, I trimmed it oversize, used self tappers to locate it in the rain channel, and snuck up on the final cut marks. Better to trim too little than too much!  [12] Before final trimming,...  [12] Before final trimming, the trunk lid was closed and the gaps checked, as well as the flow of the trunk lid into the rear panel, ensuring the curvature was consistent. Note the panel now fits behind the quarter-panel at the rear.  [13] Looking from inside the...  [13] Looking from inside the trunk, here’s a better view of the trunk lid adjusters/bumpers, as well as depicting how the panel was marked for final trimming.  [14] The new panel is supplied...  [14] The new panel is supplied with a stepped lip, which fits under the old quarter-panel at its highest point. This was tack-welded, as was the dogleg section inboard of it, before a cut-off wheel was used to remove the overlapping section where the self-tapper was locating the panel. A hammer and dolly was used to assist alignment of the panels in the rain channel.  [15] With the panels tack-welded,...  [15] With the panels tack-welded, the gaps were checked again. The importance of repeatedly checking this cannot be stressed enough.  [16] The ends of the new panel...  [16] The ends of the new panel are now welded to the quarters, but not yet attached to the floor. Using the splash apron/gravel pan as a guide …  [17] … its mounting holes...  [17] … its mounting holes were drilled though the lip in the rear panel, and through the new floor section.  [18] Using nuts and bolts...  [18] Using nuts and bolts to clamp the two panels together, further holes were drilled between them and plug-welded from below. When welding upside down with a MIG welder, turn the wire speed up slightly to compensate.
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