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 With the chassis brackets...  With the chassis brackets welded in place, the bumper brackets could be bolted on to check for length.  Having access to a lift in...  Having access to a lift in our tech center sure made things easier, as I was able to lower the truck down over the bumper to determine the length of the bumper brackets.  Here I’m marking the exact...  Here I’m marking the exact position of the brackets on the rear of the bumper.  Two 4-inch lengths of 1/8-inch...  Two 4-inch lengths of 1/8-inch C-channel were drilled and tapped to accept 3/8-inch bolts …  … then tack-welded to the...  … then tack-welded to the rear of the bumper. Another pair of 4-inch-long lengths of steel strap were bolted to them, again through oversize holes, and welded to the bumper brackets.  The lower pan panel was then...  The lower pan panel was then sat on top of the bumper brackets to determine the exact position where the slots needed to be placed.  A Rotabroach was used to drill...  A Rotabroach was used to drill the top and bottom of the slot, the remaining steel removed with a cut-off wheel followed by a file. Turns out I could have skipped welding the majority of the end sections to the pan, as the slots aligned perfectly with the welds!  The bumper brackets now pass...  The bumper brackets now pass through the slots in the new pan. I’ll probably use early VW Bug grommets here eventually.  I figured while I was working...  I figured while I was working with sheet steel I’d fabricate a couple of filler panels to fit either side of the radiator, not only to ensure all the air coming through the grille would pass through the radiator rather than around it, but also to hide the ugly ends of the abbreviated Caprice framerails! First I cut a paper template.
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