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GM Performance Goodwrench 350 Small Block Chevy Crate Motor - Everything New Is Old AgainWell Not Quite, But This Crate 350 Has Taken A Trip Back In Time ... Sorta From the July, 2012 issue of Rod & Custom By Kev Elliott
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I’ve been very pleased with the gas mileage the 305ci Chevy small-block in my ’46 roadster pickup has returned, but over the course of the past few months it’s been increasingly obvious that it’s getting tired. This culminated in a nice knocking from the bottom end of late. Rather than rebuild the 305 again, I thought it’d be a neat idea to show what can be accomplished by sourcing both an engine and all the ancillaries and dress-up items from a single source. Summit Racing sells a number of crate motors, but continuing with the pickup’s theme of economy and reliability over performance (the truck sees lots of mileage, often being used to commute) I opted for the basic GM Performance Goodwrench 350 long-block. Unless you’re set on using a specific rare set of valve covers or suchlike, everything can be sourced with one phone call or website order to Summit. I like the fact that everything I need will show up in a crate and two boxes. OK, you’ll have to go buy oil, a few bolts, and spark plugs, but that’s about it! [1] Unpacked from its shipping... [1] Unpacked from its shipping crate and on the engine stand, this is how the Goodwrench 350 looked on arrival. It even has lifting brackets attached! Summit sells Cal Custom finned valve covers and a matching air cleaner top, so the decision to go with a semi-’60s look to the engine was a no-brainer. For a second I was tempted to bolt on the tri-power setup with three 2G Rochesters I have, but it seems a shame to hide that under a hood, so simplicity won out, and I went with a four-barrel. Then I saw Summit’s Pro Pack combo deal with an intake manifold, 600-cfm carburetor, fuel line, air cleaner, gaskets, bolts, studs, and RTV sealer. Done deal! The carburetor is Summit’s new own-brand carb, available in 600- or 750-cfm variants, the latter available with manual or electric choke. I opted for the 600-cfm vacuum secondary carb with electric choke. With its one-piece design, and the tumble-polished aluminum finish, the carb kinda reminded me of an old Carter AFB, mounted sideways. Well, from the left-hand side anyway, if I squinted! Whatever, it’s a great deal, and we’ll see how it performs. It’s almost hidden from view under the 14-inch air cleaner. Check out its full list of features at Summit Racing’s website. As I was heading down the route of an older-appearing engine, I figured I’d go a step farther and grind the bosses off the front of the cylinder heads to make it appear like an old 265. However, I ended up only tackling the righthand head, as the holes in the other mount my power steering reservoir and pump, and there’s no room to re-locate them to the side of the engine. I’ll have to re-mount the alternator now anyway, but thought it’d be a bit of fun to alter at least one head. These modifications, plus painting and assembling the engine, made for a fun, easy, one-day project. Now to drop it into the pickup!  [2] While there’s absolutely...  [2] While there’s absolutely nothing wrong with the engine as supplied, we couldn’t leave well enough alone and had to modify it. Not internally, but for appearance. How about grinding these bosses off the front of the cylinder heads to make the new engine appear much older?  [3] With all the holes and...  [3] With all the holes and ports masked off to prevent debris from entering, we used a 4-inch grinder and a 24-grit soft pad to lose the bosses.  [4] With the boss gone, an...  [4] With the boss gone, an old bolt was wound in with thread locker to hold it. A little too much thread locker perhaps!  [5] The bolt head was then...  [5] The bolt head was then cut off and the threaded section ground smooth with the head. We left the lower section of the boss a la early 265 small-block. If there’d been more meat on there, we’d have been tempted to grind it to the desirable camel hump shape!  [6] To prepare the engine...  [6] To prepare the engine for paint we used a red Scotch-Brite to scuff the black paint on the block, heads, timing cover, and oil pan.  [7] The Goodwrench engine...  [7] The Goodwrench engine comes with holes for the dipstick on both the right and left sides, and included are these steel dowels that enable one or the other to be plugged.  [8] Since we were aiming for...  [8] Since we were aiming for an older look to our engine, we plugged the dipstick hole on the right side of the block. Here the plug is hammered into place using a drift.  [9] Here’s Summit’s own-brand...  [9] Here’s Summit’s own-brand as-cast aluminum four-barrel intake manifold, which is included in the Pro Pack combo. We opted to paint it the same Chevy orange as the rest of the engine. First, the thermostat housing, carburetor, and distributor gasket faces were masked off.  [10] With gasket sealer applied...  [10] With gasket sealer applied to the heads and intake gaskets, a thick bead of RTV sealer was applied to the front and rear block faces where the intake will seal.  [11] With more gasket sealer...  [11] With more gasket sealer on the top surfaces of the intake gaskets, and the mating surface of the manifold itself, the intake was bolted in place, remembering to tighten the bolts in the recommended sequence, working from the middle out.  [12] ARP valve cover studs...  [12] ARP valve cover studs were supplied by Summit, which will make removing and replacing the covers so much easier in the future rather than trying to install bolts through the cover and gasket.  [13] As the studs have no...  [13] As the studs have no means by which to lock them down, we installed two nuts, tightened them together, and then used the upper nut to tighten the stud  [14] We opted for ribbed Cal...  [14] We opted for ribbed Cal Custom valve covers from the Summit catalog, but before they were installed, we added these supplied shields below the filler and PCV holes, with thread locker on the screws.  [15] We were keen to test...  [15] We were keen to test Summit’s new own-brand 600-cfm four-barrel carburetor. Summit actually offers the carb, intake, air cleaner, and fuel line as a combo kit.  [16] With carburetor studs...  [16] With carburetor studs installed, the gasket was dropped in place. Note the valve covers are in place but not bolted down yet; that’s the beauty of using studs rather than bolts.  [17] The carb has a one-piece...  [17] The carb has a one-piece body with a removable top, meaning no gaskets, and hence no leaks, below the fuel line, externally adjustable floats and clear sight glass float windows.  [18] The stud screws into...  [18] The stud screws into a blind hole on the Cal Custom air cleaner top, making for a neater appearance than having a large nut in the middle.  [19] We used Summit’s own-brand...  [19] We used Summit’s own-brand 14-inch air cleaner, but swapped out the top for a polished, ribbed Cal Custom version. This required the central stud supplied with the carb be removed and replaced with one that came with the new top.  [20] The crankshaft damper...  [20] The crankshaft damper was supplied in bare steel, with an oiled surface, which we cleaned with acetone before applying semigloss paint.  [21] With the damper located...  [21] With the damper located on the crankshaft keyway, we used a new crank bolt and washer to pull it into place. Once tightened, the bolt could then be used to turn the engine over so the fuel pump pushrod would be as far “in” as possible.  [22] You’ll have noticed from...  [22] You’ll have noticed from the previous picture that we tilted the engine on the stand. This meant when we installed the fuel pump pushrod it wouldn’t fall out while we bolted the plate and pump in place!  [23] The crank bolt and washer...  [23] The crank bolt and washer have to be removed before the lower pulley is installed, then, re-installed, as the washer sits on the outside of the pulley. Alternatively, you could use a specialist tool to pull the damper onto the crank snout, then fit the bolt at this stage.  [24] Here’s something you...  [24] Here’s something you only do once. If you don’t install a bolt here, oil will pour from the hole on fire-up!  [25] Again, the engine was...  [25] Again, the engine was turned over using the crank bolt until the piston in cylinder No. 1 was at top-dead center. Here we’re checking the rockers are “loose”, meaning the valves are both closed, confirming the piston is on the ignition stroke.  [26] We’d previously used...  [26] We’d previously used a silver Sharpie to mark a line on the damper at zero. With No. 1 at TDC the mark was visible through the hole in the timing marker.  [27] Knowing No. 1 was at...  [27] Knowing No. 1 was at TDC, we could install the distributor, but first had to fill the engine with oil and prime the oil pump. This tool does just that.  [28] With an oil pressure...  [28] With an oil pressure gauge temporarily connected, we used a battery drill to prime the oil pump.  [29] This cast body distributor...  [29] This cast body distributor is from PerTronix, but is available through Summit, and is a cast version of their billet Flamethrower distributor. It was perfect for our engine’s build style.  [30] With the rotor arm pointed...  [30] With the rotor arm pointed toward cylinder No. 1, and the vacuum canister toward No. 2, the distributor was correctly placed.  [31] Modifying the front of...  [31] Modifying the front of the right cylinder head meant we couldn’t just swap the alternator bracket from our old engine. However, we had this old-style bracket from Jitney Hop-Up Parts By Jake. Jake Jacobs has been using this self-designed bracket since 1978, which doesn’t require threaded holes in the head. They’re available through Walden Speed Shop. The alternator is a 140-amp “OEM-look” item in cast finish from PowerMaster’s Hot Rod Series.  [32] Along with our alternator,...  [32] Along with our alternator, the starter motor we selected is from PowerMaster, supplied by Summit Racing. It’s a Mastertorque item, offering 180 lb-ft of torque in a 10 1/2-pound package that is designed for applications where heat soak is a concern. • GM Perf Goodwrench 350ci long-block • Cal Custom air cleaner top • Cal Custom valve covers • Summit harmonic balancer • Summit Pro Pack intake/install combo • Summit 168-tooth flexplate • Summit 160-degree thermostat • Powermaster three-wire retro alternator • Powermaster Mastertorque starter • Double-groove water pump pulley • Double-groove crank pulley • PerTronix cast body distributor • Chevy orange engine paint • Semigloss black engine paint
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