I know they often say, “Don’t sweat the small stuff” … but I like to sweat the small stuff. I have been accused of being a detail guy, and to be completely honest, I am OK with that. How do you sweat stuff anyway?!
This month, we continue to work on our ’31 Ford Model A top-chop project. Here we will look into the details—aka, the “small stuff”—that will finish up our chop.
[1] Continuing where we left...
[1] Continuing where we left off last issue, this is the piece that came out of the A-pillar cut. It contains the stud for the windshield swing arm that will be reused.
[2] I ground out the rivets...
[2] I ground out the rivets for the studs and removed them.
[3] Next, I drilled and tapped...
[3] Next, I drilled and tapped it with a 1/4-20 tap.
[4] This existing hole in...
[4] This existing hole in the post will lend itself perfectly to the new location of the stud. You just have to grind it back to the post so the stud can be mounted flush with the back surface.
[5] I installed the stud with...
[5] I installed the stud with these temporary Phillips screws. They will later be replaced with slotted screws, as I like the old-timey look.
[6] I drilled out the rivets...
[6] I drilled out the rivets that hold the swing arm bracket in place on the windshield frame.
[7] Now, let’s cut the windshield...
[7] Now, let’s cut the windshield frame.
[8] You want to cut it a little...
[8] You want to cut it a little less than the chop measurement. The reason for this is that the vertical posts on a ’30-31 Model A are not exactly vertical, so when they are bent out slightly to accept the top of the frame, the angle will be off somewhat. Now you have some material left to fine-tune the fit.
[9] You may need to open up...
[9] You may need to open up the hollow frame as the top of the frame fits inside.
[10] Using the cut-off part...
[10] Using the cut-off part as a template, I marked the correct location for the screw. Now you can reassemble the frame.
[11] I spot-welded the swing...
[11] I spot-welded the swing arm bracket about 3 inches lower than the stock location.
[12] We will get back to the...
[12] We will get back to the windshield frame later as I need to fit the A-pillar garnish moldings first. Instead of chopping of the A-pillar molding right in half I cut the top off. This way you avoid having a seam to deal with right in the middle.
[13] I drilled a new hole...
[13] I drilled a new hole and marked the location on the post.
[14] I then dimpled the new...
[14] I then dimpled the new hole to match the lower hole just the way Henry did it. However, now I have a hole in the wrong place for the windshield bracket stud. Let’s fix that.
[15] Do you know where holes...
[15] Do you know where holes go after they have been punched out? Well, Bob Drake Reproduction boxes them up and sells them … to guys like me (PN HR-1580).
[16] To hold the plug in place...
[16] To hold the plug in place I used a piece of copper from The Eastwood Company on the back.
[17] Perfect fit.
[18] Hole no more … looks...
[18] Hole no more … looks good. Now I just need a new stud hole in the right location.
[19] The finished product...
[19] The finished product.
[20] Now I can test the fit...
[20] Now I can test the fit and function of the windshield frame.
[21] The garnish molding fits...
[21] The garnish molding fits well and with the swing arm slide knob installed I can confirm that all is well.
[22] Step away and have a...
[22] Step away and have a look-see. Make sure you have some room between the lower part of the frame and the cowl so it does not scrape the paint when opening or closing. There will be a gasket on the frame as well so you may want to hold it up and see how much it hangs down.
[23] I have eliminated most...
[23] I have eliminated most of the wood in the roof structure but the wood frames around the rear side windows and the rear window are used as they also hold the garnish moldings. However, they do have to be chopped as well.
[24] I removed 4 inches of...
[24] I removed 4 inches of the frame and then used wood glue and screws so this will be a strong joint.
[25] Here is what it looks...
[25] Here is what it looks like compared to the original.
[26] The wood frame is held...
[26] The wood frame is held in place with small nails and the original wood is hard. It helps to use a dolly to drive the nails in properly.
[27] If you cut the garnish...
[27] If you cut the garnish molding at the same location as the wood structure you can reuse the holes in the wood for the fasteners.
[28] Hold up the mate and...
[28] Hold up the mate and check the fit.
[29] Just like the roof, welding...
[29] Just like the roof, welding the garnish molding on the backside allows for less grinding and very little filler for a solid result. The same treatment applies for the rear window frame. Now all the trim can go out for painting or plating. The car body and frame is now on its way to the paint shop and I can’t wait to start the rewarding assembly process.