9. The additional 2 inches of drop in arm length allowed the tie rod to mount below the wishbones, eliminating all clearance issues (without having the tie-rod ends or Pitman arm surpass the scrub line either).
10. Before installing the box and drag link, we set the toe-in roughly an 1/8 inch.
11. For as long as I can recall, Vega cross steer has been the setup of choice for the majority of solid-axle hot rods—it simply works, very well, affording plenty of room for exhaust and other chassis-related items that other steering boxes don't. In our case, we're using a tried-and-true Borgeson Vega box mounted via a CCHR bracket.
12. The box itself was centered prior to being hung—a Sharpie, 36-spline joint, and the Pitman arm are all that's required for this step (four-and-a-half turns divided in half!).
13. Also, the Vega's cast mounting flanges are pre-tapped 3/8 inch; for our application, the upper ear, however, was drilled out to 7/16 since we're using a through bolt attaching the box directly to the framerail, as you're about to see.
14. White's Vega bracket allows the angle in which it's mounted to be adjusted per application simply by trimming the edge to suit. An additional gusset will be added to further strengthen the mount.
15. With the drag link attached, it's a bit cumbersome mocking up the Vega box and bracket, so White fashioned up a nifty "jig" of sorts using a couple clamps and scrap metal to act as his third (and fourth) hands prior to drilling/welding.
16. With the box jigged up onto the framerail, the drag link was positioned to run fairly parallel to the tie rod, with the Pitman set at a slight downward angle (as shown).
17. A transfer punch was used to mark the location for the box's upper mount onto the 'rail. With the engine in place and little room to work with, a pneumatic angle drill had to be used.
18. While the above-mentioned drill accommodated the space constraints for the initial drilling, there was still the second outer hole to be drilled. For that, White came up with this "device" to align the bit when drilling the pilot from the backside.
19. Rather than simply weld a bung flush to the boxed section of the framerail for the upper mount, we chose to use a full-length piece of tubing to avoid any worries of stress fractures. The tubing is tapped (7/16-20) roughly 3/4 in, the outside end left solid.
20. Once positioned with the box and linkage in place, the bung is fully welded to the outside of the frame, then finished off, leaving no evidence of its existence. The perimeter of the inside is also fully TIG welded.
21. Now all that remains as far as the steering goes is choosing, installing, and linking up a column.