Last issue I covered the initial basic front suspension install. At this point I've not decided on whether I'm gonna use the VW box/column assembly that came with the original purchase or not. This is mainly because I'm also a bit up in the air over what'll be used as a drivetrain. I had planned to use the Olds engine that you've been following in Dan Kahn's Rocket Power series for motorvation, but due to time constraints (I'm trying to get the pickup on the road for Americruise) I may be forced to use a second-hand small-block Chevy/TH-400 combo just to meet my self-imposed deadline. For the time being I'm going to skip the steering portion of the frontend assembly (I'll get back to finish that up in the near future) and move on to another of the countless chores in front of me.
The next task I decided to tackle was recessing the T's firewall. Now, although I've installed more than a few pre-formed aftermarket walls in the past, this was the first time I'd attempted to recess an existing one, so it was quite interesting.
There were a few factors I had to consider before I began, such as how deep to make the recess and how to go about it in a way that would be easy to modify if I miscalculated (the smart thing would have been to hold off until I knew what engine I'd be using, but I'm not often accused of being a genius). Follow along and see how I did it. It may not be the "correct" way, but it was easy and it worked for me (though we'll see what happens in the near future).
The rather obvious first step...
The rather obvious first step in the procedure was the removal of the firewall from the cowl.
This turned out, as most things...
This turned out, as most things do, to be a bit more labor intensive than I'd imagined. It looked as though sometime in its past the T cowl had been removed and replaced. When it was, whoever did it not only replaced the original spot-welds but also added what seems like about a hundred additional ones. Needless to say, my center-punch and drill got a good workout during the removal process.
This image will give you an...
This image will give you an idea of just how many spot-welds held the darn firewall into the cowl. Plus, there is a little fold at the bottom sides of the cowl sheetmetal (similar to one where a doorskin is crimped onto the inner door structure of any car door) that I almost didn't notice, until I tried to muscle the firewall out of the cowl, that is.
With the firewall out and...
With the firewall out and lying on the floor, you'll be able to notice two things. First, though it may be a bit difficult to see, there's a marker line drawn parallel with and about 2 inches in from the outer edge of the wall--this will be my cut line. Second, you'll notice that the firewall had been butchered sometime in its past.
To make the initial cut I...
To make the initial cut I used my trusty electric grinder outfitted with one of the multitude of 4-inch cut-off wheels I constantly keep on hand. Once a starter slit was cut, I switched over to my pneumatic hacksaw (I love Harbor Freight and JC Whitney) to follow the scribed line and cut out the center portion of the wall.
This is what was left when...
This is what was left when I'd finished with my grinder and saw. The inner section will head to the scrap metal pile while the outer portion will be modified and later re-installed.
Here you can see the latest...
Here you can see the latest addition to my home shop. More than likely, my excitement to put my new bead roller to work was what prompted me to tackle this particular job in the first place. My Eastwood bead roller has become another one of my prized tools, and the more I use it and get used to it, the more I like it.
One handy aspect of the Eastwood...
One handy aspect of the Eastwood bead roller is the availability of shearing dies. These little gems will cut up to 18-gauge sheetmetal and worked wonders with the 20-gauge I used for this project.
Another accessory I find essential...
Another accessory I find essential is the optional fence attachment. Without this addition I'd never be able to run a straight line, whether I was shearing a piece of sheetmetal or rolling a bead. In fact, I'm sure it'll be a long, long time before I even attempt to use the bead roller without it.
Here it is in action. Notice...
Here it is in action. Notice that there's virtually no distortion. Thanks to the fence, it cuts a perfectly straight line. I used the bead roller to cut two strips of metal that would get me started on the recessing chore.
I laid the trimmed firewall...
I laid the trimmed firewall on the shop floor (thank goodness my floor is smooth and nearly level). Then, I took the first strip of metal I'd cut and clamped it to the firewall as shown. I used a marker to trace the shape of the original wall onto the strip.
The next step was to go back...
The next step was to go back to the bead roller and shear the strips according to the lines I'd marked on them.
I began to tack the side strips...
I began to tack the side strips to the cowl piece, allowing a lot of space and a lot of time in order to keep the metal as cool as possible to avoid warping. Once the recess strips were tacked into place (giving me a recess of an inch at the bottom and 2 1/2 inches at the top) it was time to make the wall template.
I laid the unit flat onto...
I laid the unit flat onto a large piece of cardboard and traced the opening with my marker. I then cut out the cardboard, transferred its shape to another piece of 20-gauge sheetmetal, and trimmed it to shape using the bead roller. The piece was then tacked into place in the same manner as the side-pieces and thus awaits final finish-welding.