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Air It Out with Air Suspensions for your 1958 Chevrolet

Air springs and tubular control arms for '58-64 Chevys
From the February, 2009 issue of Rod & Custom
By Damon Lee
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Want to get your big Chevy... 
   
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Want to get your big Chevy down on the ground like Debbie Daniels' '59 wagon? Then put some air under there! Air Ride Technologies has made it simpler and more user friendly than ever with StrongArm control arms for '58-64 Chevys and the new RidePro e control system. Follow along as Chris Bassett installs both on his '60 Biscayne.
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You've got to start somewhere--Chris... 
   
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You've got to start somewhere--Chris picked the rear simply because it has fewer parts. Here you can see the difference between the stock control arm and the StrongArm. New arms come finished in a semi-gloss black powdercoat.
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The control arms simply bolt... 
   
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The control arms simply bolt in like originals.
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ART's replacement panhard... 
   
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ART's replacement panhard bar has a bushing on one end and this spherical rod end on the other so you can fine-tune the length to your needs.
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This is known as a "banana... 
   
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This is known as a "banana bar" in Chevyspeak. It's the StrongArm replacement for the car's singular rear upper control arm.
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For '58-64 Chevys, ART uses... 
   
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For '58-64 Chevys, ART uses double-convoluted style springs on the rear (other applications often use sleeve-style springs). The spring needs to be assembled with the included fitting and mounting cup before it's lifted into place. A mounting stud on top and bolt on the bottom secure the spring assembly to the frame and control arm.
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This ear provides an extra... 
   
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This ear provides an extra locating point to the frame, as well as a mount for this slick-looking, adjustable aluminum bumpstop.
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If your air spring is assembled... 
   
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If your air spring is assembled correctly, the air line fitting will peek through this window in the mounting cup, making it easy to connect the flexible line. Slip-fit fittings lock lines in place without wrenches.
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The only thing left to wrap... 
   
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The only thing left to wrap up the back (besides routing air lines, of course) is to bolt in the supplied shocks.
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Moving up front, it makes... 
   
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Moving up front, it makes sense to start with the lower control arms. ART ships the powdercoated arms with ball joints, bushings, and cross shafts installed to make things as simple as possible.
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The arms include mounts for... 
   
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The arms include mounts for the shocks and sway bars, as well as the air springs (ShockWave arms are also available).
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The upper arms come with ball... 
   
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The upper arms come with ball joints installed, but you'll need to use your own cross shafts and have the supplied bushings pressed in.
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Again, the front springs need... 
   
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Again, the front springs need to be assembled with fittings, mounting cups, and studs. Basic hand tools are all you'll need.
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The front air lines should... 
   
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The front air lines should be plugged into their appropriate fittings before the spring assemblies are lifted into place.
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You need to verify that the... 
   
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You need to verify that the mounting cup is oriented properly as you lift the air spring assembly into place.
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Like the rears, the fronts... 
   
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Like the rears, the fronts are secured with a stud and nut on top, and a bolt on the control arm.
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You generally don't need altered... 
   
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You generally don't need altered spindles when you've got air springs, but Chris opted for dropped Mike McGaughy versions. That's where he hit a snag. The McGaughy spindle places the steering arm in a location where it interferes with the ART control arm.
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After a little head scratching,... 
   
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After a little head scratching, Lenard's Custom Fabrication solved the problem by cutting the arms and fabricating new mounting ears to clear the ball joints. Naturally, this won't be an issue with stock spindles; ART has verified that Superior dropped spindles will also work with StrongArms.
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The front shocks will need... 
   
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The front shocks will need to be relocated when using air springs. ART supplies beefy bolt-on front shock mounts (left), although Chris had opted to have a slightly different mount design welded to the frame prior to powdercoating.
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Here's a quick look at the... 
   
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Here's a quick look at the assembled front suspension. The big brake rotors are from Performance Online (www.performanceonline.com).
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With the StrongArms and 'bags... 
   
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With the StrongArms and 'bags installed you can move on to the compressor, tank, and controls. Then again, some people prefer to begin installations here.
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This system uses electric... 
   
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This system uses electric solenoids rather than manual valves to control air supply to and from the springs. A different solenoid controls each spring, but all four are joined together and use a common air supply line.
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Assembling the solenoids also... 
   
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Assembling the solenoids also involves installing air line fittings and sending units (arrow) for the pressure gauges. Note the use of Teflon tape to help seal the fittings.
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Compressor, tank, and solenoid... 
   
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Compressor, tank, and solenoid mounting locations will vary from car to car. Chris found the upper "shelf" area in his Biscayne's trunk to be suitable, though he bemoaned losing all that potential subwoofer space.
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A single line connects the... 
   
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A single line connects the air tank to the solenoid pack; separate lines will then be run from each solenoid to its respective spring. Use common sense here and make sure to route lines away from heat sources and moving components, use the supplied sheathing wherever they may rub or vibrate against other parts, and secure the lines to the frame or floor where possible.
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Chris is using Kugel Komponents... 
   
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Chris is using Kugel Komponents aluminum clamps to secure the supplied 3/8-inch, DOT-approved line.
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After supplying 12-volt power... 
   
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After supplying 12-volt power and ground to the compressor, virtually all wiring is done via Weatherpack fittings and other quick connectors. There's enough wire for most situations; excess can be bundled up and stashed inconspicuously.
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You can see that the RidePro... 
   
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You can see that the RidePro e unit is not only incredibly compact, but also very easy to wire. The wires on the right lead back to the compressor and solenoids; those on the left go to the control panel and remote control receiver.
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The optional remote control... 
   
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The optional remote control communicates via this compact antenna, which can be mounted out of sight under the dash.
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The main control panel (left)... 
   
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The main control panel (left) has digital pressure readouts for each spring and can be mounted almost anywhere--in the dash, in a console, on a fold-down bracket under the dash, etc. Or you can leave it unmouted and keep it handy on the seat next to you. The optional remotes are small enough to use as key fobs and offer the convenience (or novelty) of lifting and lowering your ride from a distance.
Air Ride Technologies Lenard's Custom Fabrication
2434 E. Fender Ave., Unit D, Dept. R&C
Fullerton, CA 92831

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