You've got to give General Motors credit for seeing this lowrider trend coming decades in advance. How else can you explain the optional air suspensions--complete with catchy names like "New-Matic"--available from nearly every GM division back in 1958? Not only that, but since The General's systems were prone to failure, sooner or later your car would be "layin' frame" whether you wanted it to or not. Talk about being ahead of the curve!
Thankfully, air suspensions have come a long way since then, with big trucks and production cars by the millions employing them on a daily basis without reservation. Companies such as Air Ride Technologies have helped bring "bags" to the hot rod and custom car masses, where they've been met with open arms. The concept is just too enticing for many rodders: a car that can be dumped in the weeds while parked or profiling, then raised to a safe and comfortable level for blasting down the freeway. Best of all, good handling and ride quality can be maintained if the system is properly designed and set up.
Like any good company, Air Ride Technologies is continually refining its products and adding new applications, which brings us to a couple of recent offerings that we think will interest R&C readers. First up are the new StrongArm front and rear control arms for full-size '58-64 Chevy cars, which serve several purposes. First, the jig-welded tubular arms look good, which will make the chassis detailing guys happy. Second, they're designed to work properly with air suspensions and lowered cars, with optimized arm lengths, dimensions, and angles to reduce binding and interference during extreme suspension travel. And finally, they simplify air suspension installation since they're already set up with proper air spring or ShockWave mounts. In addition to '58-64 Chevy applications, StrongArms are available for '55-57 Chevy and Mustang II-style front suspensions, '64-72 GM A-body (Chevelle, Skylark, etc.) front and rear suspensions, and many GM trucks.
The other item of interest is the new RidePro e control system, which can be installed or retrofitted on almost any air suspension application. The compact RidePro e is like a "brain" for your bags since its ride height on start feature can be programmed to inflate springs to a user-determined pressure whenever the ignition is turned on. Furthermore, an optional auto-leveling feature lets you program three ride heights that remain constant regardless of load. RidePro e can also be had with two sets of controls--a standard, hard-wired electronic keypad with compact switches and digital readouts that you can mount most anywhere (or leave unmounted), plus optional remote control fobs that let you to raise or lower your car from a distance. Best of all, RidePro e is designed for do-it-yourselfers, with Weatherpack plugs and indexing, locking connectors virtually eliminating the need for cutting, splicing, and soldering wires.
It just so happens our pal Chris Bassett, a certified '58-64 Bowtie freak who hawks Chevy restoration parts at CARS, Inc. in Fullerton, California, was recently preparing to install StrongArms, CoolRide springs, and RidePro e on his in-progress '60 Biscayne, Naturally, we stopped by to snap a few photos. For the most part it was a simple remove-and-replace process, although since Chris was starting with a bare powdercoated frame, we'll only be showing the "replace" end of things. He did encounter a few hiccups along the way, but most were due primarily to the combination of other aftermarket parts on Chris' car. Check out the photos and captions for more specifics.
For '58-64 Chevys, ART uses double-convoluted style springs on the rear (other applications often use sleeve-style springs). The spring needs to be assembled with the included fitting and mounting cup before it's lifted into place. A mounting stud on top and bolt on the bottom secure the spring assembly to the frame and control arm. | 
This ear provides an extra locating point to the frame, as well as a mount for this slick-looking, adjustable aluminum bumpstop. | 
If your air spring is assembled correctly, the air line fitting will peek through this window in the mounting cup, making it easy to connect the flexible line. Slip-fit fittings lock lines in place without wrenches. |
The only thing left to wrap up the back (besides routing air lines, of course) is to bolt in the supplied shocks. | 
Moving up front, it makes sense to start with the lower control arms. ART ships the powdercoated arms with ball joints, bushings, and cross shafts installed to make things as simple as possible. | 
The arms include mounts for the shocks and sway bars, as well as the air springs (ShockWave arms are also available). |
The upper arms come with ball joints installed, but you'll need to use your own cross shafts and have the supplied bushings pressed in. | 
Again, the front springs need to be assembled with fittings, mounting cups, and studs. Basic hand tools are all you'll need. | 
The front air lines should be plugged into their appropriate fittings before the spring assemblies are lifted into place. |
You need to verify that the mounting cup is oriented properly as you lift the air spring assembly into place. | 
Like the rears, the fronts are secured with a stud and nut on top, and a bolt on the control arm. | 
You generally don't need altered spindles when you've got air springs, but Chris opted for dropped Mike McGaughy versions. That's where he hit a snag. The McGaughy spindle places the steering arm in a location where it interferes with the ART control arm. |
After a little head scratching, Lenard's Custom Fabrication solved the problem by cutting the arms and fabricating new mounting ears to clear the ball joints. Naturally, this won't be an issue with stock spindles; ART has verified that Superior dropped spindles will also work with StrongArms. | 
The front shocks will need to be relocated when using air springs. ART supplies beefy bolt-on front shock mounts (left), although Chris had opted to have a slightly different mount design welded to the frame prior to powdercoating. | 
Here's a quick look at the assembled front suspension. The big brake rotors are from Performance Online (www.performanceonline.com). |
With the StrongArms and 'bags installed you can move on to the compressor, tank, and controls. Then again, some people prefer to begin installations here. | 
This system uses electric solenoids rather than manual valves to control air supply to and from the springs. A different solenoid controls each spring, but all four are joined together and use a common air supply line. | 
Assembling the solenoids also involves installing air line fittings and sending units (arrow) for the pressure gauges. Note the use of Teflon tape to help seal the fittings. |
Compressor, tank, and solenoid mounting locations will vary from car to car. Chris found the upper "shelf" area in his Biscayne's trunk to be suitable, though he bemoaned losing all that potential subwoofer space. | 
A single line connects the air tank to the solenoid pack; separate lines will then be run from each solenoid to its respective spring. Use common sense here and make sure to route lines away from heat sources and moving components, use the supplied sheathing wherever they may rub or vibrate against other parts, and secure the lines to the frame or floor where possible. | 
Chris is using Kugel Komponents aluminum clamps to secure the supplied 3/8-inch, DOT-approved line. |
After supplying 12-volt power and ground to the compressor, virtually all wiring is done via Weatherpack fittings and other quick connectors. There's enough wire for most situations; excess can be bundled up and stashed inconspicuously. | 
You can see that the RidePro e unit is not only incredibly compact, but also very easy to wire. The wires on the right lead back to the compressor and solenoids; those on the left go to the control panel and remote control receiver. | 
The optional remote control communicates via this compact antenna, which can be mounted out of sight under the dash. |
The main control panel (left) has digital pressure readouts for each spring and can be mounted almost anywhere--in the dash, in a console, on a fold-down bracket under the dash, etc. Or you can leave it unmouted and keep it handy on the seat next to you. The optional remotes are small enough to use as key fobs and offer the convenience (or novelty) of lifting and lowering your ride from a distance. | | |