10. A little adjustment was required to ensure the engine was both central in the frame and level side-to-side, but once it was...
11. ...we added these temporary angle iron brackets from the heads to the frame to ensure nothing moved while we fabricated the mounts.
12. We had been a little concerned about clearance between the steering shaft and the oil filter, but our fears prove unwarranted, as can be seen.
13. We elected to mount the transmission first, and here's where access to the Direct-Lift two-post lifts in our Tech Center was invaluable, as we could raise and lower the body as often as required, with minimal effort.
14. Chassis Engineering can supply transmission crossmembers in varying degrees of drop or no drop at all. We opted for the 4-inch dropped version, as the trans mounting pad was just slightly below the bottom of the framerails. The two plates on the left are boxing plates, while the pair on the right are for use if you wish to bolt the crossmember in place.
15. The crossmember is supplied over-long and needs to be cut to length. We measured the distance between the inside of the rails (33¾ inches in our case), marked the center of the crossmember using tape as shown, then merely measured half the overall width from the center out to each required cut.
16. With the crossmember bolted to the trans, and the boxing plates in place (but not welded to the tube) it was tacked to the inside of the chassis rails.
17. The plates were slid back along the tubes to allow access to fully weld the crossmember to the rails...
18. ...prior to welding the boxing plates in position. The crossmember is now fully welded to both the framerail and the boxing plate.
19. The finished trans crossmember install. Yes, we'll be boxing the remainder of the chassis at a later date.
20. Chassis Engineering also supplied these small-block Ford engine mounts, the rubber cushion set, and chassis brackets.
21. We had to remove a section of steel from the driver-side mount to clear a plug on our particular block. This was done using a holesaw and file.
22. We knew the width of our F-100 chassis was going to be a problem when using chassis brackets designed for cars, deciding to simply add 1¾ inches to each bracket.
23. We extended the brackets using 3⁄16-inch steel, then sanded them to shape on the Eastwood belt sander in our Tech Center, prior to sandblasting.
24. As you can see, we added a strengthening plate to the underside of each bracket, rather than simply butt welding them.
25. From the topside you'd never tell they didn't come that way!
26. One final check to ensure nothing has moved, and we're ready to weld the brackets to the frame.
27. Using the optional 220V supply rather than 110V, our Millermatic 211 was more than capable of welding the brackets in place. Note that we used fire retardant blankets from Harbor Freight to protect the suspension, steering rack, and engine whilst welding.
28. With the engine and trans mounted, we can now move on to headers and steering, then pull the motor to fully box the frame.