Ford Model A Super X Crossmember Kit

The Super X kit includes the master-cylinder mount and the transmission mount and is laser-cut for accuracy.

First, a straightedge is clamped to the ’rails over the spring-pin hole as the zero line for all future measurements. It’s critical to get the straightedge square to the framerails and centered over the spring-pin hole in the middle of the front crossmember, so measure, measure, then measure again. Dagel’s likes to indicate a framerail centerline with a piece of string stretched between the front and rear crossmember through the spring-pin hole centers.

The cowl alignment spacer is then bolted to the cowl mounting bolts. This piece keeps the framerails at their proper spacing for the duration of the installation. Without this piece, there’s a chance that the framerails could be pushed out of alignment while the Super X is being installed.

Dagel’s hot tip when installing this kit is to clamp a piece of plate across the underside of the framerails near the center of the X-member. This not only supports the pieces during mockup, but also helps keep the parts aligned within the height of the ’rails. Center it 57 inches or so from the zero line.

Next, Dagel’s makes an 8-inch wooden spacer block from a square-cut hunk of 2x6 or 4x4. This spacer helps keep the proper spacing at the center of the X. Dagel’s also uses a couple of sections of scrap tubing to support the side rails while measuring them for trimming. Be sure to use tubing that is the same height as the framerails. Notice that when the side rails are aligned with the center spacer, the ends extend over the framerails.

Dagel’s marks the side rails where they intersect the framerails and trims to fit. Remember, measure twice, cut once. If you’re not 100 percent sure about your measurements, leave the side rails a little long, then fine-tune until the center plate fits snugly between them.

The cross tube is located 551/2 inches from the zero line. Dagel’s aligns the side rails and cross tube to this specification. This measurement is also important as the brake-pedal assembly location is in a very tight area, leaving only about a 1/8-inch space for error. The X-member assembly is also centered vertically in the frame. The kit was designed to be slightly shorter than the Model A ’rails to allow for a good weld with minimal grinding.

Once all the measurements have been triple-checked and everything is centered, the center spacer plate is installed between the side rails on top of the cross tube; just the side rails are then tack-welded to the frame.

All measurements are re-checked and the cross tube is made parallel with the front zero line; if it’s off, make it right. The side filler plates are test-fit over the front of the cross tube. Once everything fits, the measurements are re-checked, and then the center spacer and side filler plates are removed.

The cross-tube is welded in place. Dagel’s moves around to avoid heat buildup and doesn’t weld the top of the cross tube between the side rails as that will affect the alignment of the center spacer. With the cross tube secure, the center spacer and side filler plates are replaced, checked for fit and welded.

While the center cools, the side rails are welded to the frame, then the welds are dressed. The slight size difference in the X-member allows for a fillet weld bead that stays below the top of the framerail and prevents grind-through for maximum strength. Prime and paint to your liking.

Model A frames flex. They were designed that way partly because roads weren't all that smooth--or even paved for that matter--in the '20s, and the somewhat limited travel of buggy-sprung solid axles relied on this torsional flexibility to keep all four wheels on the ground.

While today's roads are much more forgiving on a '28-'31 frame, the addition of a heavy V-8 engine and the power it produces aren't. These days, finding bent, twisted, or cracked original 'rails is more the norm rather than the exception, since they're the obvious results of excessive flex. That's why you see so many boxed Model A frame- rails. Although boxed 'rails go a long way toward stiffening and strengthening a frame, an X-member takes it further.

Check out the Super X crossmember kit from Dagel's Street Rods. It's a complete weld-it-yourself crossmember kit designed specifically for the Model A frame. It's already set up to accept a modern master cylinder and includes a GM-specific, but easily modified, bolt-on transmission mount.

Before you start this project, it is important to ensure that your frame is straight, flat, and square. Set the bare 'rails on identical sawhorses on a flat, level surface and warm up the measuring tape. Start at the front crossmember using the center spring-pin hole as your zero point. Measure the distance to the left and right cowl bolt holes and to the rear crossmember where it meets the 'rails. It's not so important what the measurement is, but that the measurements are within 1/8 inch of each other. While you're at it, stretch a piece of string down the center of the frame between the crossmembers from the center spring-pin holes and measure the distance from the 'rails to the string. Again, they need only be within 1/8 inch of each other. If they're looking good, you're ready to get started. If not, Gary Dagel suggests finding a better pair to form the foundation of your pride and joy. Dagel also strongly recommends boxing your 'rails before installing the Super X kit, as it was designed with boxed 'rails in mind. Dagel's Street Rods also offers a complete boxing kit for Model A 'rails so you could do the whole shebang with one order.