The Ignitor variants are easily...
The Ignitor variants are easily identifiedthe original module is black, the II is red. Both versions are available for most applications. We chose the Ignitor II for our 345hp Ford Motorsport crate engine.
You could be brain-dead and...
You could be brain-dead and still install an Ignitor successfully the first time. Just remove the original ignition points and screw the Ignitor to the breaker plate.
Next, slip the magnetic trigger...
Next, slip the magnetic trigger ring over the stock points cam. On GM/Delco applications you may have to remove the distributor from the engine to install the trigger ring thanks to the top-mounted advance weights on those distributors. If that bothers you, PerTronix makes a module for the GM distributors that senses directly off the points cam and requires no extra trigger wheel, eliminating the need to remove the distributor. However, the lobe-sensing version is not available as an Ignitor II.
Whatever the style of Ignitor...
Whatever the style of Ignitor module used, its a two-wire hookup: red to switched power, black to the negative side of the coil, have a nice day. The beauty of the PerTronix Flamethrower performance coils is that all you have to do is peel the sticker off and they look vintage. You could even stencil an old-looking part number on the side.
Generator or alternator? Its todays litmus test of "have you gone all the way?" when considering a vintage-look rod. We like this one, too: Got points? Modern ignition takes a few dings off the style of a retro rod, but just like the popular alternator-inside-a-generator conversion, theres a solution: the PerTronix Ignitor electronic ignition. The Ignitor is about the simplest ignition upgrade you can make, since its just a little module that drops in to replace ignition points in a stock distributor. Theres no external box required (though the Ignitor can be used to trigger virtually any aftermarket ignition upgrade), and with just two wires to hook up, its easy to make your original distributor look stock but perform with modern reliability. Weve used Ignitors several times and have always been extra happy with em.
Even if you dont care about a stock vintage look, the Ignitor conversions are an inexpensive and easy way to upgrade your distributor. You can use a small-diameter points-type distributor in your Chevy to gain more firewall clearance than with an HEI, then convert it to an Ignitor. If you have an old ACCEL dual-point or a roached Mallory Unilite lying around, Pertronix makes kits for those, too. You can even upgrade factory electronic distributorsincluding Ford Autolites, Chryslers, and aftermarket distributors with Chrysler pickupsthereby eliminating the separate amplifier box to simplify wiring and clean up the underhood. The Ignitors do not even require a ballast resistor when used with the proper coil.
Ignitor vs. Ignitor II
The Ignitor is the standard module that PerTronix has offered for years. The latest is the Ignitor II, which has adaptive dwell controlit senses coil energy and adjusts the dwell time accordingly. The result is more ignition power available, a higher rpm, plus longer life because theres less heat buildup during low-demand conditions. When looking at spark energy at 3,000-5,000 rpm, PerTronix says the Ignitor can produce twice the power of points, and the Ignitor II can triple the spark energy. The Ignitor should be used with coils of 1.5-ohm resistance or greater, while the Ignitor II can benefit from higher-powered, super-low-resistance coils. PerTronix offers Flamethrower (40,000 volts) and Flamethrower II (45,000 volts) coils to go with the Ignitors, though other brands can be used.
For virtually stock street engines, the $75 Ignitor should suffice. Also, the original Ignitor is all you need if you plan to use an aftermarket spark amplifier (like an MSD or Hyfire) because in that application it only works as a trigger. For high-performance applications without an additional amplifier, the Ignitor II is ideal; its around $120.