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Y-Block Revisited

Tips on Assembling Ford’s Other Vintage V-8
February, 2009
By Drew Hardin
Photography by Drew Hardin
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Ever wondered where the Y-block... 
   
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Ever wondered where the Y-block got its name? Check out this front view of one of Bob Carlisle’s, of Bob’s F-100 Parts, 312s. While most crankcase skirts end close to the crank centerline, Ford engineers gave this motor a very deep skirt to strengthen the bottom end.
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This close-up view of the... 
   
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This close-up view of the bottom of a 292 block shows how thick the block skirts are. Ford designed its first overhead V-8 with five main bearings, as opposed to the flathead’s three, and they’re torqued to 145 lb-ft.
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Ford used the same ECZ block... 
   
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Ford used the same ECZ block casting for 272-, 292-, and 312-inch blocks from 1956 to 1959. Read the suffix to tell them apart. Here, the B indicates that it was originally either a 200-horse 292 or 215-horse 312 from 1956. If you’re junkyard scrounging and run across a Y-block with an EDB-D or EDB-E number, you’ve found the 300-horse supercharged 312.
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Even though the Y-block’s... 
   
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Even though the Y-block’s cooling ability was better than the flathead’s, it can still benefit from additional help, especially in the area where the two exhaust valves are close together. Here, Carlisle marks two cooling holes to be drilled between the middle two cylinders. Note that Carlisle is using a contemporary composite head gasket. The original head gaskets were tin, and therefore much thinner. Decking the block and the heads will make up for the compression lost to the thicker gaskets. Carlisle also told us that many of these blocks did not come flat from the factory, and he usually has 0.020 to 0.030 inch milled off the decks just to level them.
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Another block-prep tip: Have... 
   
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Another block-prep tip: Have your machinist remove all of the oil-galley plugs and thoroughly flush the galleys. The paraffin-based oil used in the ’50s and ’60s turned to sludge easily, and that sludge will keep the new oil from going where it should. Once the block is clean, install new plugs.
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Oiling improvements make up... 
   
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Oiling improvements make up a big part of Carlisle’s pre-assembly prep, especially around the camshaft. He recommends drilling a small hole at the base of each lifter boss (except for the rear two), and then scoring a small V to channel oil down into the hole.
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One of the main reasons Carlisle... 
   
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One of the main reasons Carlisle prefers a 292 block to a 312 is the fact that he can drop in modern neoprene main seals (left). For a 312 block you have to press-fit and cut the old-fashioned rope seals (right). Rope seals can work, Carlisle says, but you have to fit them in just right.
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One quirk of the Y-block is... 
   
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One quirk of the Y-block is that you have to insert the solid, mushroom-shaped lifters into the block from the bottom, so this must be done before you set the crankshaft in the block. Also note that Ford made two sizes of lifters for the Y-block. Those with the smaller, 0.14-inch foot thickness were steel, while the thicker, 0.22-inch lifters are cast. Use the steel lifters.
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See the four small dots on... 
   
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See the four small dots on the main cap near the end of Carlisle’s finger? He punched those in the caps before disassembling the engine, as the factory didn’t mark them. You want to make sure you match the cap with its corresponding main bearing support.
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The first Y-blocks were fitted... 
   
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The first Y-blocks were fitted with cams (bottom) that had four small holes cross-drilled through the center journal to send oil to the journals—not a great design. In 1956, Ford replaced the holes with a groove in the center journal. If you’re going to use a stock cam, be sure to use a ’56-or-later version, or an aftermarket cam with a center groove (like the F-300 from Isky, shown above). This cam is fairly aggressive, with 0.448-inch lift and 250 degrees duration at 0.050 inch. Carlisle could have used the 0.505-inch-lift cam, but decided against it for street driveability.
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Notching the cam-bearing plate... 
   
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Notching the cam-bearing plate allows oil to seep through and better lube the end of the cam. Look closely and you can see the ring where the cam scored the plate due to lack of oil.
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Don’t let this kind of... 
   
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Don’t let this kind of carnage happen to your Y-block. As a quick camshaft-oiling fix, some companies make a kit that taps a small line in the pan and sends oil up into the rocker assembly. Unfortunately, this can starve the bottom end, resulting in the kind of grenading you see here. This is why Carlisle spends so much time creating other oiling means in the valley, camshaft, and cam bearing plate.
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Carlisle recommends replacing... 
   
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Carlisle recommends replacing the original canister-style oil filter with a kit to adapt a contemporary spin-on filter; replacing the old external oil pump with a new one; and replacing the hex shaft that runs the pump. It may look odd, but the external pump makes good pressure, says Carlisle.
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Speaking of odd, Y-block timing... 
   
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Speaking of odd, Y-block timing sets have the timing marks on the sides of the gears. To set the timing properly, you need to have the right number of links between the marks. Some chains have colored links to better see the proper alignment. Heavy-duty truck motors had double-roller timing chains that you should find for a high-horse application.
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For his buildup, Carlisle... 
   
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For his buildup, Carlisle put Silv-O-Lite aluminum pistons on the Y-block connecting rods. The rods have floating wrist pins; make sure the wrist-pin keeper is properly seated or the resulting damage will ruin your block. These pistons, in combination with the stock combustion chambers, will give the motor a nice, streetable 9.1:1 compression. A word about bore: This particular motor has been bored 0.080-inch over, from the 292’s 3.750 to the 312’s 3.800, plus an additional 0.030 overbore. Carlisle told us there is so much material in the cylinder walls that he’s seen often-rebuilt blocks bored as much as 0.120-inch over.
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Y-block cylinder heads are... 
   
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Y-block cylinder heads are recognizable by their stacked intake ports. The intake side of the heads, says Carlisle, “flows pretty well and doesn’t need much work.” Look closely at the ports and you can see the lines he’s scribed to match the opening of the gaskets.
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The exhaust side does get... 
   
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The exhaust side does get a fair amount of clean-up. Carlisle opens up the high side of the exhaust port and grinds off two small casting bumps that hinder exhaust flow.
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Remember how Carlisle drilled... 
   
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Remember how Carlisle drilled cooling holes in the engine block? He drilled corresponding cooling holes in the head. Ford made Y-block heads with three valve sizes. 1.925/1.510 were the biggest, but they’re hard to find.
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Hollow Y-block pushrods... 
   
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Hollow Y-block pushrods were longer than solid types—choose rod length for proper orientation between the rocker arm and the valvespring. Check fitment between the rocker arm’s ball and the pushrod’s cup, as cup size varies with rod length.
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Some builders prefer to remove... 
   
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Some builders prefer to remove and block off the small oil-return tube at the end of the rocker shaft, as this pressurizes the oil in the shaft assembly. If you plan on doing this and you’re reusing the original rocker assembly, then knock out the plugs at the ends of the shaft and clean out the sludge.
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You have several options when... 
   
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You have several options when outfitting a Y-block with intake and exhaust accessories. The 312 in our lead photo was fitted with an Offy intake to mount three two-barrel carbs, but the 292 hybrid will use this Edelbrock dual-quad setup.
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Carlisle chose to match the... 
   
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Carlisle chose to match the Offy intake on this 312 with finned Offy valve covers. While the intake and valve covers are repro parts, the ram’s horn exhaust manifolds are original and tough to find.
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Carlisle says these Sanderson... 
   
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Carlisle says these Sanderson 1-1/2-inch-diameter four-into-one headers are a good choice for a street-going Y-block, and are far easier to find than the vintage manifolds.

Quick, make a mental list of famous Ford V-8s. The flathead’s a no-brainer, and so are the side-oiler 427 and Cammer. Then there’s the Cleveland, FE big-blocks, Boss 302…. The list goes on. But we’ll guess only the most die-hard Blue Oval fans pulled the Y-block out of their mental filing cabinets.

This is a shame. The Y-block marked a significant development in Ford’s history. It succeeded the flathead in 1954 with an industrial-strength block and a contemporary, overhead-valve design (as GM had already done with its postwar Caddy and Olds mills). Right out of the chute, it produced 130 hp from 239ci, besting the 125 hp from the 255-inch Merc flattie. It also had none of the flathead’s overheating problems. It powered the first Thunderbirds, was a terror on NASCAR tracks, and helped Ford beat Chevy in the 1957 new-car sales wars. It grew from 239 inches to 272, 292, and eventually 312 inches; and a 312 in supercharged trim produced over 300 horses.

Yet the Y-block barely made a ripple in the rodding community. Remember, in 1954, Chrysler’s Hemi was already grabbing attention on the strip and at the lakes, and Chevy was only a year away from altering the high-performance landscape with its 265-inch small-block. Even the Ford faithful soon had other motors to choose from, as the FE big-blocks first appeared in 1958. Compared to the 20-plus-year run of the venerable flathead, the Y-block enjoyed barely a decade of production before getting phased out in favor of the Windsor small-block in 1962.

So why should rodders care about this motor? Well, if you want something different than the Chevy small-blocks you see in every other car and you’re seeking a period motor for a Ford-based project, why not choose a Blue Oval mill from the Eisenhower-Kennedy era? Especially since it’s capable of making 300 horses. Its extra-stout construction makes it heavy, but it also allows an engine builder a lot of latitude in terms of boring the cylinders and running serious compression. (Ford engineers built it to withstand pressures up to 12:1, though stock engines never surpassed 9.7:1.) Dressing one in mid-’50s T-bird trim with dual-quads, or even an era-correct supercharger, would look pretty cool.

Plus, there’s the sound of the Y-block. “There’s nothing like it,” says Bob Carlisle of Bob’s F-100 Parts in Riverside, California. “It’s as distinctive as a Harley’s. It’s got that certain ‘la-la-la-la’ lope to it.” To prove his point, Carlisle took us out to one of his trucks—a ’59 4x4—and turned it over. He was right. The Y-block almost shuffles at idle, as if it could do anything you asked without breaking a sweat.

“These were tough, quick motors in their day,” Carlisle tells us. “[The Y-block] was one Chevy-eating SOB. Put 300 horses in a ’Bird and you couldn’t touch it.”

Bob Carlisle knows Y-blocks. They were used in Ford trucks longer than in the cars—up through 1964—and he’s built and rebuilt a ton of them. Carlisle was recently building a Y-block for one of his personal trucks, so we looked over his shoulder and soaked up as many Y-block building tips and tricks as we could. This engine has its quirks, and Carlisle showed us how to navigate around them to make power and help the engine live. The assembly wasn’t complete before we left, but his goal was to make 300 hp from a 9.1:1 compression motor that could run all day on premium pump gas.

One of the first things you can do to successfully build a Y-block is to gather the right parts. You might want to head straight for the big-cube 312, but that may not be the best choice, Carlisle tells us. For one thing, 312s are getting hard to find. “I must have 50 Y-blocks in house, and only about a dozen are 312s,” he says. The 292s are much more plentiful and can easily be machined to the 312’s 3.80-inch bore—or more. “I’ve seen blocks that have been rebuilt five or six times, and they wind up being bored 0.120 inches with no problems,” Carlisle says. Plus, neoprene main seals aren’t available for the 312 block, so builders must use the old-school rope main seal. There are neoprene seals for the 292, however.

Then there are the crankshaft issues. The 312’s crank had main journals that were 1/8-inch bigger in diameter than the previous 272 and 292 engines, but widening that radius removed just * enough metal to cause cracking problems between the main bearing bores and the main bolt holes. Ford’s original fix was to back off the main cap torque spec from its original 145 lb-ft to 95, which helped. Ford also changed the design of the main bolt, going from a 25/8-inch bolt with a lock washer to a 3-inch bolt with no washer. This extended the reach of the bolt into a meatier part of the block, and the cracking issues were solved.

Carlisle’s favorite Y-block combination is a 312 crank in a 292 block. That requires turning the mains down to fit the 292’s bearing supports, but the result is a stroker crank that can use the 312’s shorter rods but doesn’t have the 312’s block-cracking problems.

There’s another factor to consider: There are forged truck cranks available for the 292, but the 312s only had cast cranks, as they were never intended for truck duty. So if you’re thinking about forced induction or nitrous, you may want to opt for the steel 292 crank for extra beef in the bottom end.

As you’ll see from the photos, though, extra beef is not an issue with the Y-block. “Henry designed these engines to run forever,” says Carlisle. “They’re basically truck or tractor engines—built to last. Not like the throwaway engines that came later.”

Bob’s F-100 Parts
Riverside
CA

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